Away From It All - Vieques

By Christopher Cox

A Perfect Day on Vieques, Puerto Rico


The largest of the so-called Spanish Virgin Islands basking between St. Thomas and Puerto Rico, Vieques is a paradise based upon a paradox: If not for its history of earth-shaking violence, chances are it wouldn't enjoy its current low-key soft-adventure allure. The U.S. Navy's decades-long use of the dagger-shaped island as a bombing range saved Vieques from runaway development, and when the military closed the controversial firing ranges in 2003, nearly 18,000 restricted acres (approximately three-quarters of the 52-square-mile island) were designated as Vieques National Wildlife Refuge. The preserve holds a rich variety of habitats, including beaches, lagoons, mangrove wetlands and an impressive stand of subtropical dry forest.

Vieques promises hours of rewarding beach hopping on its miles of unspoiled sands. Much of the southern, or Caribbean, shore is scalloped with arcing white-sand beaches that are perfect for family picnics, beachcombing or just throwing down a towel and kicking back with a cooler of cold Medalla beer.

Just east of Esperanza lies the well-organized Sun Bay balneario (public beach), complete with snack bar, picnic tables, bathroom facilities and more than a few grazing free-range horses. A half-mile beyond, shielded by an ironshore promontory and shaded by sea grapes, placid and perfectly named Media Luna (Half Moon) is ideal for youngsters. A 15-minute drive further east, you'll find quiet and sheltered Caracas (Red) Beach and Bahia de la Chiva (Blue Beach).

Aquarium-worthy snorkeling can be found along Cayo Afuera, just off Esperanza; the islets of Blue Beach; and west-side Green Beach. The north shore's Mosquito Pier can't claim any coral, but its sea-grass beds attract endangered manatees and green sea turtles. The refuge's landscape is also a haven for nearly 150 species of birds, including the endemic Puerto Rican woodpecker and the commonwealth's largest colony of brown pelicans, as well as hidden-yet-hikable historic sites like the ruins of a 19th-century sugar plantation near Playa Grande.

When the midday sun gets too intense, head into laid-back Esperanza, where waterfront Calle Flamboyan buzzes with small shops and breezy grills serving everything from burgers to yucca salads. Or grab some fresh-off-the-boat conch salad from Hector Guishard's roadside stand just outside town and make the five-mile drive across Vieques to northside Isabel Segunda, the island's main settlement and ferry terminal. (Be careful on the narrow roads; it's still common for local men to ride to town on horseback.)

Looming above the port, with panoramic views of the big island eight miles away, stands star-shaped El Fortin Conde de Mirasol, begun in 1845 and one of the last Spanish-built forts in the Americas. These days, the gracious main building holds a fine museum devoted to the rich cultural history of an island inhabited for at least 4,000 years.

The island's signature attraction is a bioluminescent bay considered the best and brightest in the world. Officially known as Mosquito Bay, the nearly landlocked "Bio Bay" is rimmed by mangroves that nourish tiny light-emitting plankton called dinoflagellates. When these sensitive microorganisms are disturbed - perhaps by a darting fish or the sweep of a swimmer's stroke - they produce an amazing blue-green aura brilliant enough to prompt your own glowing report about Vieques.

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