San Juan: Never A Dull Moment

How San Juan crams so much fun and flavor into one small city is part of its undying allure. While other destinations offer seclusion, San Juan offers inclusion. Come on in, join the party, eat a little more, drink a little more, love a little more - excess is what it's all about. And when you're delirious from the exuberance, you can grab some quiet time in a world-class museum, stroll a seaside promenade or bask on a golden beach in the middle of the city. Just when you think you know everything, San Juan comes up with something new to surprise you and make you fall in love again.

PROMISING PROMENADE: Old San Juan is one of the Caribbean's premier cities for walking, and the National Park Service has improved it with a new harborside extension to the Paseo de la Princesa at the foot of the old city. Walk through the original gate of San Juan where travelers and immigrants first passed into town. Turn right and follow a mile-long interpretative trail along the water's edge and around the old city walls that defended Spanish San Juan against the English, French and Dutch for 300 years. From here, the ramparts of Castillo San Felipe del Morro are awe-inspiring.

WHERE ART THOU? The Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico (787-977-6277) is proof that Caribbean artists - with a legacy of European influence - have been creating world-class art since the 1500s. This state-of-the-art facility is housed in the carefully restored and expanded former Municipal Hospital in Santurce. It is a showcase of Puerto Rican art, from the 16th-century works of classicist Jose Campeche - look especially for his Portrait of Castro's Two Daughters - to the graphic fervor of the activist poster painters of the '50s to modern-day Sotheby's best-sellers Arnaldo Roche Rabell and Jorge Zeno. Wander the sculpture garden or visit one of the traveling shows, which have ranged from local star Antonio Martorell to Vassily Kandinsky.

FERRY, FERRY GOOD: For a massive harborside lunch, take the 50-cent, seven-minute ferry ride from Pier 2 (AcuaExpresso terminal) across San Juan Bay to Catano. Turn right out of the terminal and you'll find a picturesque new malecon (seaside walkway). Walk about three minutes, and on your left you'll see Morgan's Steak & Seafood Restaurant (787-275-0850). The dining room is cozy and the bar overlooks the bay. Watch boats ply the waters while you chow on churrasco (skirt steak), eggplant a la Morgan's - stuffed with lobster and shrimp - or 7 Seas Gumbo.

PUERTO RICO AND POLAND? The trompe l'oeil work of Polish artist Henry Antoni Pospieszalski tricks you into thinking that his work was painted centuries ago. No way, Jose. Pospieszalski is the current toast of San Juan in the decorative arts. Unless Banco Popular President Richard Carrion invites you to his home, you can best see the artist's work in the Old City Hall, upstairs in Old San Juan's Il Grottino restaurant on Calle Tetuan, in the passageway next to Cafe Berlin on Plaza Colon or at Baru, the rocking South American restaurant on Calle San Sebastian.

SEX IN THE CITY: Ostra Cosa (787-722-COSA) in the romantic interior courtyard at 154 Cristo Street bills itself as ''the aphrodisiac restaurant.'' Thai restaurants rate their dishes by spicy hot; Ostra Cosa rates them with ''Oh!'' ''Wow!!'' and ''Ay Ay Ay!!!'' Try their conch, already known as the Caribbean Viagra, stuffed in a crispy cheese crepe with a glass of Felice's Wicked Sangria, and be ready for anything. ''Our dishes are the synthesis of Puerto Rican culture, our sensuousness and our flavorful existence,'' says owner Alberto Nazario. Oh. Wow. Ay ay ay.

Cigar aficionados can find stogies from one of the few remaining island producers available as a private label stock at La Belle Epoque restaurant (787-977-1765). The Puerto Rico-grown tobacco originates from Cuban seed, and the cigars are hand-rolled by Cuban immigrants. Try one after dinner in their Smoker's Terrace with a smooth, aged, three-star Ron del Barrilito, Puerto Rico's finest rum.

Posted online 07/20/01.