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Photo by: Greg Johnston
Puerto Rico -- Local Guide
Topography: Puerto Rico's geography is rich and varied, including roughly 300 miles/480 kilometers of coastline, a 28,000-acre/11,200-hectare rain forest, a long and rugged central mountain range, 50 rivers and coastal wetlands and mangroves. The north coast is lush and green while the south is arid. The Cordillera Central mountain range runs east to west with its highest peak, Cerro de Punta, topping out at 4,398 feet/1,319 meters. The island has a vast area of underground caves and cenotes, as well as the Camuy River, the world's third-largest underground river.
Currency: The U.S. dollar. Most major credit cards and traveler's checks are accepted.
Language: Spanish is the dominant language, but English is understood and spoken almost everywhere.
Area Code: 787 for the whole island.
Documents: When arriving from the U.S. or U.S. Virgin Islands, U.S. citizens do not have to show a passport or proof of citizenship. Canadians should carry at least a birth certificate and photo I.D., and residents of Great Britain should have a passport.
Electricity: Outlets are the same as those in the U.S. - 110V, 60AC.
Taxes and Tipping: Hotels add a 7 percent tax, 9 percent if they have a casino. There's no departure tax, and visitors should tip an average of 15 percent, or what one normally leaves for good service anyplace in the U.S.
Climate: Northeast trade winds help this island keep its cool. The average temperature is 760F/240C, cooler in the mountains and in the evenings, with summer highs sometimes hitting 900F/320C. Nighttime and winter lows can drop down to about 600F/150C. The average rainfall is 62 inches/158 centimeters, falling mostly in the summer, except in the rain forests like El Yunque, where it rains almost every day, or in the dry areas to the west.
Time: Atlantic standard time, one hour ahead of eastern standard, except April through October (East Coast daylight savings time), when it's the same.
Ground Transportation: Cars and mini-buses, or pzblicos, provide low-cost public transportation around the island. Fares vary according to destination, and most depart from a town's main square. To tour the island on your own, rental cars are available from the major companies - Avis (800-331-1084), Budget (800-527-0700) and Hertz (800-654-3131). Note that road signs are in Spanish and distances in kilometers, but speed limits are in miles per hour.
Airlines: The island is one of the easiest to get to in the Caribbean. Major airlines including American (800-433-7300), Continental (800-525-0280), and Northwest (800-225-2525) schedule regular flights into San Juan, and there are daily flights from there to Mayag|ez, Fajardo, Aguadilla and Ponce.
Ferries: There is ferry service from San Juan to Hato Rey and Catano (call 787-788-1155 for schedule) as well as to the islands of Culebra and Vieques from Fajardo, with reservations required for cars. Call 787-863-0852 for daily departure times.
Cruises: Puerto Rico is a major departure port and port of call for most cruise lines including Carnival (800-CARNIVAL), Royal Caribbean (800-327-6700) and Norwegian (800-327-7030).
Beaches: Miles of publicly accessible shoreline are one reason Puerto Rico is the most visited island in the Caribbean. Condado Beach rings resort row in San Juan; it is perpetually abuzz with tourists and vendors and makes for great people-watching. Luquillo Beach always makes the postcard rack with its beautiful half-moon of sugar sand dotted with towering palms. The postcards don't show it on weekends, when Puerto Rican families jam the place in search of sun and fun. Get there early if you want a prime place to stretch out your towel. The government runs 13 beaches, called balnearios, which have lifeguards, dressing rooms, picnic tables and other amenities. (Admission is free; parking is US$1) Playa Flamenco, the nicest of the balnearios, is a 3-mile-long span on the north shore of Culebra that could make a strong case for "prettiest beach in the Caribbean" honors. Sun Bay, on nearby Vieques, offers snorkeling, scuba diving and boat rentals.
ACTIVITIES:
Sightseeing: Old San Juan is a wanderer's delight, with its authentic Colonial architecture, cobbled streets and old-fashioned gas lamps, not to mention the shops, cafis and restaurants that crowd the narrow streets. The historical sights are so numerous here you could wander around for days and only get through half of them. One must-see is the fort of San Felipe del Morro - El Morro for short. Admission is free from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily at this national park, a military fort that was built by Spaniards in the mid-1500s; 787-729-6960. Also notable in Old San Juan is the Museum of Pablo Casals, the famed Spanish cellist. Casals spent his final days in Puerto Rico, and this house holds memorabilia from his distinguished career. Admission: US$1; 9:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m., 787-723-9185.
Tours of the El Yunque National Forest are a popular day trip for visitors. In this protected rain forest, there are miles of paved trails to hike (the cement helps contain erosion) and hundreds of different kinds of trees, flowers and animals along the way. Information on the best way to visit El Yunque is available at the visitor center, Route 191, km 11.6; 787-887-1880.
Golf: Puerto Rico offers more great golf courses than any other Caribbean island. Senior PGA Tour star Chi-Chi Rodriguez got his start playing the four Robert Trent Jones-designed layouts at the adjoining Hyatt Regency Cerromar and Hyatt Dorado Beach, 787-796-1234. The new course designed by Greg Norman at the Westin Rio Mar, 787-888-8811 ext.1404, opened last year. The course at the lavish El Conquis-tador resort, 800-468-5228, is hilly and full of challenges. Work has begun on a new course, designed by Rees Jones, to join the Gary Player-designed track at Palmas del Mar, 800-468-3331.
Thoroughbred Racing: Horse fans can try to parlay their vacation budget into something substantial at El Nuevo Comandante Race Course at Canovanas in San Juan. Puerto Ricans take their racing, and betting, as seriously as Kentuckians, so competition is hot. Post time is around 2:45 p.m. on most race days. Call 787-724-6060 for post times or more details.
Casinos: A popular pastime at resorts all over the island. In San Juan, you can gamble the night away at the Condado Plaza (787-721-1000), the Caribe Hilton (787-721-0303), the San Juan Marriott Resort (787-722-7000), the El San Juan Hotel (787-791-1000), San Juan Grand Hotel & Casino Beach Resort (787-791-6100), the Dutch Inn Hotel (787-721-0810), the Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza (787-253-2929) and the Radisson Ambassador Plaza (787-721-7300). Out on the island, there are casinos at the El Conquistador (800-468-5228), Westin Rio Mar (800-WESTIN-1), Palmas del Mar (800-887-1880), Hyatt Regency Cerromar (800-233-1234), Mayag|ez Hilton and the Ponce Hilton (800-445-8667).
Restaurants: The restaurant scene in San Juan is like that in any other booming metropolis: There are plenty of choices, and there is always a new "hot spot." Sanjuaneros like to dress up at night when they hit the town, so the atmosphere is always sleek and sophisticated. But there are also some fine restaurants "out island." We've included a few choices here. (Prices noted are per person, excluding drinks and gratuities.)
SAN JUAN AREA:
Chef Marisoll: A small and intimate eight-table room with a romantic courtyard, this restaurant is ably run by one of the few female chefs on the island, Marisoll Hernandez. The fare ranges from the simple to the sublime, and her soups have been written up in Gourmet. AE,MC,V. US$24-$35. 202 Calle del Cristo, Old San Juan. 787-725-7454.
The Parrot Club: Chef Emilio Figueroa is one of the leaders of the "criollo cuisine" revolution in Puerto Rico, mixing Caribbean and classic tastes. This colorful room in Old San Juan features tamarind, mango and avocado flavors added to fish, meat and chicken. AE,MC, V. US$8-$16. 363 Calle Fortaleza, Old San Juan. 787-725-7370.
Butterfly People Cafi: Somewhat touristy, but not a bad place for a light lunch. It's on the second floor next to Old San Juan's famous Butterfly Gallery. Try the gazpacho and save room for dessert. AE,MC,V. US$8-$13. Calle Fortaleza 152, Old San Juan. 787-723-2432.
Compostela: A very formal Spanish-style restaurant, run by a family from Galicia: Look for waiters in tuxedos and napkin-snapping service. On the expensive side, but some of the capital's movers and shakers dine here. AE,DC,MC,V. US$12-$35. Avenida Condado 106, Condado Beach. 787-724-6088.
OUT ON THE ISLAND:
Horned Dorset Primavera: Probably the finest restaurant in Puerto Rico, including San Juan, under chef Aaron Wratten. Superb classic cuisine combined with a wonderful wine cellar and attentive service in an intimate room with soaring ceilings and a balcony overlooking the Caribbean. AE, MC, V. US$24-$88. Route 429, Rincsn. 787-823-4030.
El Castillo: The fanciest restaurant in Mayag|ez features all the elaborate trappings: formally dressed waiters, paneled dining room. The food usually lives up to the surroundings: The seafood is always fresh and imaginatively prepared. AE, DC, MC,V. US$10-$30. In the Mayag|ez Hilton, Route 104, Mayag|ez.
787-831-7575.
La Montserrate: Located on the seafront in Ponce in a residential neighborhood far removed from the bustle of the city's old downtown. Head for the back room, which affords views of the water.
Posted online 08/01/98.
