Bonaire: Dive into Diversity

The air in Bonaire's City Café is thick with conversations that rise and fall with odd intonations and alien phrasing. Dutch, German, English (both American and British versions) and Papiamento create a din that is punctuated by laughter -- the common language in this meeting of cultures on Kralendijk's waterfront. Even without translation, one thing is sure: People are having fun here. Europeans have been coming to Bonaire, a former Dutch colony 50 miles north of Venezuela, for years to enjoy its sun and sports, although the American contingent has largely been limited to scuba divers.

Bonaire's eclectic mix of languages and cultures is as diverse as this island's sometimes quirky personality: It is raw and refined, languid and lively, a destination for the outdoor enthusiast that also provides easily attainable adventure for less-than-athletically inclined visitors.

DIVE IN
Bonaire was built on scuba diving, as evidenced by the thousands of stickers for scuba clubs and dive shops plastered around the airport's departure gate. Even license plates here proclaim "Diver's paradise." Each year, bubble-blowing visitors search for Bonaire's prized sightings: tiny seahorses and gargoyle-like frogfish -- both masters of disguise that come in red, black, yellow and orange. Waters surrounding the island and uninhabited Klein Bonaire are part of a marine park established in 1979, which has kept the surrounding reefs vibrant, vigorous and densely populated.

While virtually every resort has dive boats, shore diving is Bonaire's signature activity. Yellow-painted stones at some 50 roadside spots indicate the best scuba and snorkeling sites. Shore diving is so popular that most rental vehicles are pickup trucks, which allow easy access to equipment and prevent divers from putting wet gear into backseats and carpeted trunks.

Bonaire Dive and Adventure (011-599-717-2227; www.discoverbonaire.com/dive) is now operating the dive shop for Sand Dollar Condominium Resort, which has a new pier and guest gear storage facility.

AQUARIUM AT SEA
Nondivers can take in the underwater views from the glass-bottomed Aquaspace trimaran (011-599-717-2568; www.aquaspacebonaire.com). This funky-looking sailboat's sunset wine-and-cheese excursion puts you face to face with giant grouper and party-dressed parrotfish.

GET UP AND GO
While Bonaire does have museums, shopping and casinos, most visitors come for the outdoor activities. Try an ocean kayak trip to Klein Bonaire. The 15-minute crossing is easy enough for beginners. Buddy Dive (011-599-717-5080; www.buddydive.com) runs guided turtle-tracking trips to the island. The nesting season runs May through October.

Experienced bikers will enjoy the challenge of the rolling hills at Washington-Slagbaai National Park with Cycle Bonaire (011-599-717-7558). The less hardy should tour by car. Occupying the northern 20 percent of Bonaire, the desert park is home to blue iguanas, pink flamingos and the native lora parrot.

SEEKING SAND
Much of Bonaire's limestone and coral coastline is composed of rocky slopes and sheer cliffs, but there are some fine places to lay a towel. Playa Funchi, on the westernmost tip, and 1,000 Steps Beach, on the west side north of the hotels, are both worthwhile tanning stops with excellent snorkeling.

GET DOWN AGAIN
Karel's (011-599-717-8434) on Kralendijk's waterfront, is the place to turn happy hour into a whole happy night. Dance to thumping reggae or just sit and sip while watching scuba divers in full gear wobble past to make night dives on Town Pier right next door.

TAKE AN UMBRELLA
Despite its name, It Rains Fishes (011-599-717-8780) is neither dreary nor limited to seafood. The cartoon-style mural by Henk Roozendaal on the wall outside this bay-front restaurant is cheery and hard to miss. Inside is casual cuisine and darn good coffee. Beef tenderloin carpaccio is the best land-based entrée, but excellent seafood is what inspired the restaurant's name.

SLEEPING NEAR THE FISHES
Most of Bonaire's accommodations are small, casual resorts geared to divers.

The newest luxury property is Bellafonte Chateau de la Mer (011-599-717-3333; www.belbonaire.com). Named for singer Harry Bellafonte, who used to own land here, this condo resort features 20 oceanfront apartments.

Hotel Rochaline (011-599-717-8286; www.mainstreetbonaire.com) in Kralendijk, recently finished renovations to its 21 guest rooms, equipping them with cable TV, air conditioning and private baths.

For more information, visit www.infobonaire.com or call 800-BONAIRE.

Posted online 04/02/04.