30 Great Places To Get In Over Your Head

Jacques Cousteau once said, ''The best way to observe fish is to become a fish.''The French friend of the sea wasn't advocating radical gill implantation and sewing on scales; he was simply recommending that we all strap on a mask and fins and get Zen.

Opening your eyes in the tropical sea will vividly and fundamentally alter your perspective on life. The coral reef is the richest, most extraordinary ecosystem on earth, and it's also the easiest to visit – no slogging through jungles, no sweating on the savannah – simply slip in and let the warm turquoise sea envelope and support you while you explore.

The question isn't whether to jump in, but where. Fortunately, the Caribbean is the world's most accessible snorkeling wonderland. So grab your goggles, make like a fish and take our regionwide tour of the best of the best.

ANGUILLA
Ringed by 39 beaches and almost completely surrounded by coral reefs in six marine parks, Anguilla is a snorkeler's paradise. One of the best places to dip your flippers is along the northeast coast at Shoal Bay, with its mile-long beach and lively reefs. Other great sites are accessible by boat, including the isolated waters of Little Bay on the north coast, and Prickly Pear Island, a great day trip that is one of the island's best sea and sand excursions. – Brian Courtney

More information: www.anguilla-vacation.com/ 800-553-4939

ANTIGUA
Virtually every one of Antigua's 365 beaches offers fish-friendly fun. Most of the best beaches are on the northwest coast; Dickenson Bay is a great place to start exploring. Farther south at Deep Bay, the wreck of the Andes sits in just 20 feet of water. The three-masted merchant ship sank in 1905 and has been growing coral ever since. Off the south shore, a marine park protects parts of Cade's Reef, home to cobalt blue tangs and colorful parrotfish that flit among stands of elkhorn and staghorn coral. – B.C.

More information: www.antiguabarbuda.com/ 888-268-4227

ARUBA
Palm Beach and Eagle Beach may be Aruba's best-known strands, but to make the best use of your mask and fins try Malmok to the north or Baby Beach to the south. Baby Beach Reef starts in 20 feet of water, but the best stuff, including crabs and lobsters, is about 30 yards outside the lagoon. De Palm Island, off the west coast, offers a perfect day trip: You snorkel with tons of tangs, companies of sergeant majors and mobs of triggerfish. There are also a bar and grill and showers. A ferry leaves the mainland every half hour. – B.C.

More information: www.aruba.com/ 800-TO-ARUBA

BAHAMAS
If you can't find great snorkeling in the Bahamas, you must have your eyes closed. Wade off the beach from any of the 700 islands and cays, or just fall off a boat while wearing a mask: It's that simple. – Keith Philips

The Abacos
A snorkeling trip here is more than just a swim, it's an all-day cruise, beach barbecue and rum-punch party rolled into one. Coral Caverns off Green Turtle Cay features a network of shallow coral heads linked by a grouper subway system of tunnels and caves. Spend the morning paddling around, while the captain rustles up fresh fish and lobster for lunch. When they break out the jugs of rum punch, it's a race to see if you get lit before the grill does. – K.P.

Bimini
Successfully snorkeling with wild spotted dolphins off Bimini is like wooing a lover Ñ simply try to appear more interesting than you really are. Dolphins are too intelligent to be excited about you splashing around the surface. Dive down and try to mimic their sinuous swimming; they'll be laughing out loud and you'll end up with a serious case of the warm fuzzies. – K.P.

Exumas
The Exumas Land and Sea Park, with 175 square miles of shallow reefs built atop a brilliant carpet of white sand, is an all-star snorkel destination. The park is off limits to fishing and development, so the unrivaled abundance and diversity of marine life here is all yours to enjoy. Try Thunderball Grotto, Fowl Cay and Wax Cay Cut for nature-made snorkeling bliss, but don't miss the half-submerged wreckage of a DC-3 airplane off Norman Cay. – K.P.

Grand Bahama
Grand Bahama Island has ideal conditions for beginning and junior snorkelers, but enough marine life Ñ turtles, angel fish, elkhorn, brain coral and rays Ñ to entertain the most avid finners. Deadman's Reef in Paradise Cove is a popular site, while less-frequented snorkel trails can be found around West End. Experienced snorkelers can also venture out into open water to interact with trained bottlenose dolphins and wild spotted dolphins. – Jessica Chapman

New Providence
Hop aboard a snorkeling boat off the island's southwest corner, and you'll end up at School House or Goulding Cay. Both pack plenty of sun-dappled coral and colorful tropical fish into kiddie-pool depths. You can also snorkel over the Carib Breeze, an intact shipwreck that rises to just 8 feet below the surface. And if you need a jolt of adrenaline, end the cruise by snorkeling over chum-fed reef sharks. It's not really dangerous, but we won't tell if you won't. – K.P.

More information: www.bahamas.com/ 800-442-4262

BARBADOS
Most shipwrecks are beyond typical snorkeling range, but the Berwyn, a 60-foot tug at the bottom of Carlisle Bay, has been collecting corals, sponges, squirrel fish and snapper since it sank in 1919 – in only 25 feet of water. You can also combine wreck and reef adventures on the underwater snorkel trail at Folkstone Park; it leads to a raft anchored over a small barge in 20 feet of water. –M.Timothy O'Keefe

More information: www.barbados.org/ 800-221-9831

BELIZE
Belize is the ultimate ''surf-and-turf''adventure destination, featuring jaguar-filled jungles inland and the hemisphere's longest barrier reef offshore. Ambergris Caye, within a mile of the big reef, offers easy access to Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley, the country's most popular snorkeling sites. Hol Chan means ''little channel,''and currents sweeping through the cut in the reef attract and support huge schools of fish. Nearby Shark Ray Alley offers a wonderful chance to get close to big southern stingrays and schools of beady-eyed nurse sharks. – Bob Friel

More information: www.travelbelize.org/ 800-624-0686

BERMUDA
Pink sand, black rum and businessmen wearing shorts and dress shoes: It must be Bermuda. This collection of Atlantic islands is constantly bathed in the warm Gulf Stream, which carries tropical reef fish and critters far north of the tropics. Both Tobacco Bay, on the northern tip of the island, and Church Bay, at the far end of the famed south shore beaches, are perfect for goggle-bearing beachgoers. Enter anywhere along the beach and swim for the dark spots. Local dive operators run guided snorkel trips by boat, kayak and dive scooter to see the Pollockshield's, a munitions ship that sank in 1915 off Elbow Beach. – B.F.

More information: www.bermudatourism.com/ 800-223-6106

BONAIRE
Try swimming from shore to the best reefs on many islands and you could end up kicking for hours. Not on Bonaire. At spots like Playa Funchi, 1000 Steps and Windsock Steep, massive formations of coral grow in shallow water Ñ 15 feet or less. Snorkeling around Bonaire's little sister, Klein Bonaire, requires a boat, but sites such as No Name, Leonora's Reef and Jerry's Jam are worth the trip. – M. T. O.

More information: www.infobonaire.com/ 800-BONAIRE

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
The otherworldly rock formations at the Baths on Virgin Gorda are icons of BVI snorkeling, and rightly so. But just to the north is Spring Bay, a less crowded beach with even better underwater sights. On Tortola, Smuggler's Cove at West End is a funky little beach with a vivid reef and views of Jost Van Dyke. Bob Denniston's ramshackle resort serves as the cove's honor bar. Just put your money in the cigar box, and find the refrigerator with the beverages. Anegada, at the northern end of the chain, is surrounded by excellent snorkeling, with Loblolly Bay a standout. – B.C.

More information: www.bviwelcome.com/ 800-525-8530

CANCÚN AND THE YUCATÁN
Snorkel gear is your best passport to the Mexican Caribbean, where limestone and clear water join forces to form beautiful reefs and mysterious cenotes. – K.P.

Cancún/Isla Mujeres
The high-energy resort town of Cancún and ultra-laid-back Isla Mujeres share a shallow stretch of fringing reef that is famously fishy. Just follow the conga line of tourists wearing masks and snorkels to the water-sports desk at any Cancún hotel, and soon a boat will whisk you to the site of the day. El Garrafon, a national marine park off the southwest tip of Isla Mujeres, is an excellent spot frequented by boats from both Cancún and the island itself. – K.P.

Cozumel
Cozumel is best known for scuba diving on deep walls, but you don't need a tank to spend a great day in the water at Chankanaab Lagoon. Chankanaab features a sandy beach and great snorkeling around large coral heads. The depth rarely exceeds 20 feet, and the conditions are as calm as a hotel pool. A reasonable admission fee gives you all-day access to the park, which includes a botanical garden and a beachfront restaurant. – K.P.

Playa del Carmen
Playa Del Carmen used to be little more than a ferry dock, but today it's a thriving mini-Cancún with easy access to Mayan ruins, cenotes and snorkeling parks. Cenotes such as Dos Ojos and Temple of Doom are limestone caverns filled with fresh water. Combine cenotes with snorkeling in shallow inlets and lagoons, throw in dolphin encounters and enough tourist facilities to warrant an admission fee, and you have Xcaret and Xel-Ha, the famous ''eco-archeological parks.''Touristy? Yes, but also a fun place to spend the day. – K.P.

More information: www.islacozumel.com.mx/ 800-CANCUN-8 or 011-52-987-20972

CUBA
Many U.S. travelers are waiting for Castro to kick so they can explore this beautiful island without legal complications. Then again, many aren't waiting and invade the Communist Caribbean by going through nonembargo countries or joining educational trips. If you sneak in with your snorkel, don't miss the Bay of Pigs' Punta Perdiz Beach where colorful patch reefs thrive in just 20 feet of water. – K.P.

More information: www.cuba.com/ 416-362-6332

CURACAO
Tugboat – named for the wrecked tugboat resting in 17 feet of water – is Curaçao's premier snorkel site. Here you'll find pondlike conditions and a well-encrusted shipwreck. You can get to the site from Caracas Bay Island (also called Baya Beach Club), which has a $3 admission fee and also offers rentals on mountain bikes and kayaks. Another snorkeling day starts at the Princess Beach Hotel on the east end, where you can explore 12 miles of protected reef in Curaao's Underwater Marine Park. –  B.C.

More information: www.curacao-tourism.com/ 800-270-3350

DOMINICA
Volcanic forces smolder beneath the jungled peaks and tumbling waterfalls of this all-natural island. Crescent-shaped Soufriére Bay on the Caribbean side of the island is a flooded crater that serves as happy hunting ground for sperm whales, and hot springs well up across the island, creating natural Jacuzzis. But the most bizarre evidence of Dominica's fiery heart is Champagne, a shallow snorkel site in a marine reserve where volcanic gasses bubble nonstop from the seafloor. The shore north of the bay is also lined with great snorkeling reefs such as Soufriére Pinnacles and Pointe Guignard that you can visit by dive boat. – K.P.

More information: www.dominica.dm/ 212-949-1711

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC
With miles of sugar-sand beaches and sweet all-inclusive resorts, Bayahibe serves as a great base for snorkeling excursions. Of course, this being the D.R., offshore day trips are really just an excuse for speedboating to the beach pavilions of Saona Island, where the sand is gorgeous, the buffets piled high, the music infectious and the bars open early in the morning. Oh, yeah, the reef: It's a protected national park, so don't merengue on the corals. – K.P.

More information: www.dominicanrepublic.com/ 888-374-6361

GRAND CAYMAN
Don't worry if it's crowded when you arrive at Stingray City, the Caribbean's most visited snorkel site: There are plenty of southern stingrays around and ready to provide a wing-flapping full-body massage to anyone who hits the water. There are actually two sites to see rays in North Sound; Sandbar is best for snorkelers. Eden Rock, just offshore of George Town, is another good spot for large animals, including turtles and a school of resident tarpon. The west end of famed Seven Mile Beach offers easy access to the offshore reef at West Bay Cemetery. You'll find the best coral about 100 yards out, and after your swim, you can relax under the beach's shade trees. – M.T.O.

More information: www.caymanislands.ky/ 800-346-3313

GRENADA
Snorkelers visiting the Spice Island will enjoy the scenic 20-minute boat ride from Grand Anse beach to Flamingo Bay almost as much as the underwater sights. The reef here offers a bounty of gaudy fish and mixed corals starting in just 8 feet of water. You can also stay right on Grand Anse and soak yourself at the southern end of the beach where you'll find some of the largest sea fans in the Caribbean. – B.C.

More information: www.grenada.org/ 800-927-9554

HONDURAS
The chance to swim with a whale shark is almost always good at Utila, the smallest of the three Bay Islands. Your snorkel approach is simple: Hope that your boat driver spots one, and then just jump in with the world's largest fish. On Roatan, you can find a shipwreck and the remains of a DC-3 just off the CoCo View Resort and Fantasy Island Resort. They're deep, about 65 feet, but you'll have a fine panoramic view. For reef snorkeling, go to West Bay Beach. On rustic Guanaja, where all travel is by boat (there are no roads), the remarkable water near Michael's Rock will motivate you to gear up before the boat even stops. – M.T.O.

More information: www.hondurasinfo.hn/ 800-410-9608

JAMAICA
The north shore of the island that gave us Red Stripe, reggae and all-inclusive megaresorts is lined with great reefs. From Negril on the western tip to Port Antonio on the east – with bustling Montego Bay in between – mask, fins and snorkel are de rigueur. Most sites involve a short boat ride, but making arrangements is easy from any resort. Best bet: Rose Hall Reef, a few miles east of the beach at MoBay, where castles of pillar coral reach for the surface and nurse sharks swim beneath a natural coral arch. – K.P.

More information: www.jamaicatravel.com/ 800-233-4582

PUERTO RICO
Though both Vieques and sister ''Spanish Virgin Island''Culebra have served as practice targets for the U.S. Navy, lack of major development has left nearly pristine ecosystems and snorkeling on par with those of the other Virgin Islands. Let Al Sharpton have his 15 minutes of fame; I'll take hours of lazy snorkeling at Esperanza, where a handful of beachside restaurants mean you can stay and play from sunup to sundown. On Culebra, try Punta Molines, a.k.a. Impact Beach. –  K.P.

More information: www.GoToPuertoRico.com/ 800-866-7827

ST. BARTS
This sexy French island best known as a playground for the fab and the famous is also home to clear water and 22 beaches. So strap on your color-coordinated mask and fins and designer trunks – bathing-suit tops are optional – and prepare to plongŽ. Shell Beach, a half-minute drive from Gustavia, features plenty of fish near the rocks at either side of the cove. On the western end, Anse de Colombier is a secluded strip of fine white sand and bright blue water protected by hills on three sides. It's a mile walk from the town of Flamands – or a steep hike from Colombier – but worth it. – B.F.

More information: www.st-barths.com/ 011-590-27-87-27

St. EUSTATIUS (Statia)
Statia is one of the few places where you can take a city tour using snorkel gear. Old City Wall, part of a collection of submerged ruins that date back to the 1700s, starts in just 12 feet of water. There's easy shore access to see everything from technicolor tropicals to octopi. There are also shipwreck artifacts in the area, including cannons and anchors. Jenkins Bay is another good spot, which is easily reached by boat. – B.C.

More information: www.turq.com/statia/ 011-599-318-2433

ST. KITTS AND NEVIS
These two islands are linked both by politics and a barrier reef called Grid Iron. The coral runs from Conaree on St. Kitts to Newcastle Beach on Nevis, and provides great snorkeling for visitors to both islands. On St. Kitts, the reef at Banana Bay starts in 15 feet of water and is loaded with elkhorn coral and fish. The Beached Tugboat Wreck, also on St. Kitts, rises from 20 feet down to break the surface, making it a perfect stage for a snorkeling adventure. On Nevis, Pinney's Beach is the finner's favorite with a series of easily reached sites. – B.C.

More information: www.stkittstourism.kn; www.nevis1.com / 800-582-6208

ST. LUCIA

With its majestic pitons soaring skyward a half-mile, you'd expect undersea St. Lucia to be just as impressive. It is. The best snorkeling is at the Anse Chastanet Marine Reserve, where schooling fish, huge sea fans, giant sponges and corals are clustered close to shore. Elsewhere, minipitons called The Pinnacles rise all the way from 50 feet to just 15 feet below the surface and you'll find soft corals, barrel sponges and schools of pelagic fish around the small peaks. – M.T.O.

More information: www.stlucia.org/ 800-456-3984

ST. MARTIN/ST. MAARTEN
Only one place in the world fits 36 beaches, a dozen casinos, endless nightlife, more gourmet restaurants than you can shake a fork at and two nationalities all into 37 sun-soaked square miles. On the Dutch ''double-a''side, snorkelers get up with the sun to hit Dawn Beach. You can see the dark line of reef just offshore, and in between communing with the sea critters, you can pull up a stool at one of the laid-back bars and restaurants right on the beach. Pinel Island, just north of famed Orient Beach – sun, sand and lots and lots of skin – has the French side's best snorkeling. A $5 ferryboat ride from Cul de Sac brings you to the island with its two restaurants and a marine preserve. – B.F.

More information: www.st-maarten.com/ 800-786-2278; www.st-martin.org/ 011-590-875-721.

ST. VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES
Yachtie heaven, the 30 islands and cays that make up the Grenadines are a string of aquamarine and white-gold jewelry stretched out on a mantle of indigo sea between jungly St. Vincent and Grenada. There are few people and little development on the cays, leaving the reefs to thrive and the water to stay clear. Bequia, Canouan, Mayreau, the Tobago Cays, Mopion – drop anchor and drop in anywhere. – B.F.

More information: www.svgtourism.com/ 800-729-1726

TURKS AND CAICOS
In 1790, the 540-foot British warship Endymion cracked up on a barely submerged reef 20 miles south of tiny Salt Cay, bequeathing these rolling fields of coral her name, 12 cannons and a handful of massive anchors. Just 35 feet deep, Endymion Reef is an intoxicatingly beautiful site punctuated by white-sand channels and swarming with dense schools of colorful reef fish. Off Grand Turk, there's The Library, a living reference to Caribbean coral and fish life in just 18 feet of water. Long Point Reef is a wade-in favorite on the north shore of Providenciales. – K.P.

More information: www.turksandcaicostourism.com/ 800-241-0824

TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO
Tobago is one of those lush eastern Caribbean islands so rich in topside beauty that you could almost be forgiven for not snorkeling here. Almost. But you'd be missing out on beginner-friendly Buccoo Reef: four acres of coral in waist-deep water off Pigeon Point at the western tip of the island. Strong swimmers can escape the crowds by visiting Arnos Vale and Englishman's Bay on the north coast. Or they can head to Speyside in the east and catch a boat to a current-swept reef known as Kelliston Drain to see the world's largest brain coral, a 12-foot by 20-foot living-limestone dome on a 35-foot-deep sand ledge. – K.P.

More information: www.visitTNT.com/ 800-748-4224

USVI
The 300 fish species and diverse corals in the crystalline waters surrounding Buck Island are the highlights on one of the world's first self-guiding reef trails. The trip to Buck Island from St. Croix is the USVI's most popular snorkel trip. On St. John, the beach at Trunk Bay is gateway to yet another marked underwater trail. Farther east, the shallows of Salt Pond Bay attract mostly locals, so it's less crowded. On St. Thomas, Coki Beach is tops with bubble-blowers, and the site of a three-story underwater observatory. – M.T.O.

More information: www.usvitourism.vi/ 800-372-USVI

VENEZUELA
At the bottom of the Caribbean is a group of islands that's tops for beach-bumming, bonefishing and snorkeling. The Los Roques Archipeligo was declared a national park way back in 1972 to ensure protection for its abundant reefs, prolific lagoons and pristine beaches. Aside from a scientific field station and a small fishing village, only one of the hundreds of islets and cays here, 100 miles north of Caracas, is populated. Snorkelers can be sure that a large stretch of beach and reef will be all theirs simply by having a taxi boat drop their coolers and gear on a nearby island. – B.F.

More information: www.think-venezuela.net/ 415-331-0100

Contact the tourist board for each destination to learn more about its snorkeling.

Posted online 07/26/02.