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Photo by: Zach Stovall

Feel the HeatEmerge from the airport in San Juan and surrender to the heat - not the tropical swelter, but also the torrid tempo of the sultry Latin culture in the Caribbean's liveliest metropolis. The oldest city flying the stars and stripes has in recent times become a showcase for swinging nightlife, fine dining, elegant gambling, duty-free shopping and historic architecture. Expenses in San Juan mirror most large mainland cities, but you economize on travel by flying in to the region's best-connected airport, which offers (at time of publication) nonstop flights from 18 U.S. cities; the sheer volume of seats brings lower airfares than you'll find to most islands. Plus, some of the hidden costs that often bump up the final tab for a Caribbean vacation - service charges, departure tax, currency exchange, foreign driver's license - aren't an issue here.  San Juan on $77 a day? We'll show you how...Explore Old San Juan on foot or catch a lift on the free trolley that navigates its narrow, busy streets. Frequent buses service a four-mile-long stretch of coastline where you'll find most of the city's accommodations, from Old San Juan to Condado, Ocean Park and Isla Verde. For more information call the Metropolitan Bus Authority (787-767-7979).  You'll need a rental car for daytrips to the island's other sights, such as the verdant El Yunque rainforest or the Arecibo Observatory, each an hour's drive from San Juan.  In revitalized Condado, the 26-room Coral Princess Inn occupies an art deco building on a placid side street. Bustling with cruise-bound guests, most rooms are on the second floor and have original art, mini-bars, air conditioning and free Internet access. There's a hot tub on the top deck, and it's a five-minute walk to the beach; restaurants are within walking distance, as well. Double rooms include continental breakfast.Also in Condado and one short block from the sand, At Wind Chimes Inn encompasses two 1920s-era restored Spanish manors with a small pool in a sunny courtyard. Every room is slightly different, but the standard units are attractively decorated, if smallish; the more expensive units are bigger and brighter and include microwaves and mini-fridges. All have air conditioning and are non-smoking. Eat your meals and sip a local coffee at the  "boat bar," an outdoor terrace behind the hotel.  For lodging in the pulsing heart of Old San Juan, Hotel Milano offers a central Fortaleza Street location. Accommodations occupy three upper floors reached by elevator. Rear units cost the least but have tiny, shoulder-level windows with no real view; front units overlook Fortaleza and are slightly more spacious, but the 30-room hotel won't win any style awards, and décor is on the worn side. All rooms are air-conditioned and have modern, tiled bathrooms. A fifth-floor dining room sells continental breakfast for $5, and more than a dozen restaurants are within a few minutes' walk. Culture buffs on a budget will find their element at Da House, a European-style pensione in Old San Juan that brims with contemporary artwork and classic tile.  Inhabiting a former convent, each of the 27 rooms is named for a local artist, and all have tall ceilings, a mix of modern and Colonial furnishings, and clean, crisp décor. No TVs, but all rooms are air- conditioned and a few have a balcony. A rooftop Jacuzzi overlooks the city skyline (bring a bottle of wine at sunset). Note that there's no elevator and all rooms are at least one flight up. Several nights a week, noise from the nearby Nuyorican Café - a hot salsa bar that thumps into the wee hours - echoes into street-facing rooms.

San Juan on $77 a Day...Learn more about Puerto Rico...