Caribbean Travel Magazine

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Zach Stovall

The Secret's Getting OutWith splendid undeveloped beaches and a cheerfully bohemian vibe, Vieques flies just under the radar as one of the Caribbean's hipper getaways. But with a lavish W Resort opening later this year, the 52-square-mile island (almost twice the size of nearby St. Thomas) is about to step into the limelight. Located between Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands (and linked politically to Puerto Rico), Vieques has just 9,400 permanent residents. The chief attraction: the silky beaches reached by jeep or mountain bike on dirt roads. (The island's far eastern tip, still littered with live munitions from decades of U.S. Navy target practice, remains off limits.)Budget-minded travelers should bear in mind a few provisos: There's no public transportation to speak of, so you'll need to rent a car for at least part of your stay. There's a broad gap in quality between the island's moderately priced guesthouses and its more affordable ones, which seldom include TVs, phones or air conditioning. And it's wise not to leave valuables in your car or on the beach when visiting seemingly deserted coves. But there is plenty of good, inexpensive local food, especially from the food trucks that roll up at various locations Thursday through Sunday, selling Puerto Rican dishes like lechon and tostones. Located at the edge of Esperanza, one of the island's two towns, Casa Alta Vista is something of a work in progress, but many upgrades are planned. The enterprising owner, Mark Biron, goes out of his way to accommodate guests and introduce them to the island. The hotel's 11 rooms, which occupy two floors above a convenience store, range in size from cramped to generous and include basic furnishings and hardworking air conditioners. Most have a sea view from the shared balconies, and one upgraded ground-floor room is handicapped-accessible. Restaurants are within a five-minute walk, and cars and bikes are available for rent. A double with a queen bed are $75 year-round, including continental breakfast. 787-741-3296; casaaltavista.netOn a hillside facing the sea, Vermont couple Burr and Linda Vail's Hacienda Tamarindo is a three-story Spanish-style inn wrapped around a 200-year-old tamarind tree. The 17 immaculate rooms have saltillo-tile floors, showers and air conditioning. Least-expensive rooms overlook the garden or a sleek pool. Common areas are decorated in cheerful antiques and vintage posters and signs. A hefty box lunch for the beach is available for $10, and there's an honor bar in the lobby. It's a three-quarter-mile hike to Esperanza. Doubles with full breakfast (including real maple syrup) $135 to $175 plus a 10-percent service charge in low season ($185 to $220 high). 787-741-0420; haciendatamarindo.comSituated nearly atop a hill between Esperanza and the airport, La Finca Caribe is a collection of cottages and a house. Accommodations vary widely (the casita is dilapidated), but two newer wooden cabanas are bright and airy with simple furnishings, a private bathroom and an outdoor shower stall. The main guesthouse has a mostly open ground floor with a large kitchen, living room and broad deck with hammocks. Six upstairs bedrooms have thin walls and minimal furnishings; there are two shared bathrooms plus outdoor showers and a saltwater pool. The facility's communal feel lends itself to group takeovers of the guesthouse or the entire property. Guesthouse rooms $65 a night in low season ($85 high) with a three-night minimum; cabanas run $115 to $155 in low season ($150 to $185 high). 787-741-0495; lafinca.comWORTH A SPLURGELocated in the hills, Hix Island House is the chic, modern creation of architect John Hix, whose winter home evolved into a minimalist 13-room inn that eschews wood and glass in favor of raw concrete surfaces. The stark geometric lines are softened by Frette linens and Marimekko prints, and the outdoor showers, yoga lessons and swanky pool foster a Zen ambience. Restaurants, bars and beaches are a 10-minute drive away. Doubles are $185 to $245 plus a 7-percent service charge in low season ($235 to $295 high). 787-741-2302; hixislandhouse.comAdditional information 787-741-0800; viequesvisitor.com or enchanted-isle.com>>> Click Here for Related Articles