The English Harbour environs on Antigua's southern shore have a twin
appeal: Rich in history as the restored settlement where Admiral Nelson
set up his Royal Navy headquarters from 1784-87, English Harbour is
also gorgeous to look at.
The Navy chose this harbor because of
its narrow, and thus easily guarded, passage and deepwater anchorages
almost totally surrounded by land. It is a quintessential hurricane
hidey hole, and it's no wonder that English Harbour today is a favorite
of visiting yachties and the headquarters of Antigua's renowned sailing
Race Week in late April and early May.
The area is preserved as
a national park by the Antigua and Barbuda Park Authority, and the US$5
admission charge at Nelson's Dockyard provides entry to a peek back in
history. There are the strange obelisk columns of the sail loft and the
point where ships were hauled over on their sides or careened for
bottom cleaning and painting. The Dockyard Museum offers a brief
glimpse of life in Nelson's day but mentions nothing about his own
particular quirks. These include that the good admiral had six pails of
cold sea water thrown over his head every morning and drank a quart of
goat's milk every day.
It's also possible to live amid all the
history: Both the Admiral's Inn and The Copper and Lumber Store Hotel
are working hostelries, offering a handful of comfortable rooms, some
overlooking the harbor, and fine dining.
Once you've wandered
around the Dockyard and followed the walking trail out to Fort Berkeley
on the point, gawked at Clarence House (supposedly built for the young
Duke of Clarence who later became King William IV) and the limestone
Pillars of Hercules, it's time for the elevated view.
Away up on
the far hill overlooking the harbor is Shirley Heights. On a clear day
from the overlook atop the hill, one can easily see the smoky
Montserrat volcano and sometimes all the way to Guadeloupe.
There's
another old fort atop Monk's Hill, with the ruined arches of the
Officer's Quarters, and trails to follow to other scenic views. But
everyone eventually heads to the Lookout, which provides a stunning
view of the entire harbor.
At sunset, as the lights twink on
down below, it's a gorgeous spot for a drink from the little bar. But
on Sunday nights, the place erupts in a wild "jump-up" party, with
barbecue, live bands and general partying. A somewhat more sedate
jump-up takes place on Thursday nights.
The entrance fee at
Nelson's Dockyard includes entry to Dow's Hill Fort, the Blockhouse
military fortifications, and Shirley Heights.
For more information, call the Nelson's Dockyard National Park at 268-460-1379.
