Sooner or later, you'll come across someone on Isla Mujeres - an expat American, a perennial visitor from Canada - who will tell you, You should have been here 10 years ago. That's when this place was at its best. Don't listen to them.
Sure, this sleepy island, just eight miles off the Yucatan coast, has seen some development during the past decade, but the island of women remains a perfect antidote for those seeking a timeout from Cancun's high-octane nightlife or too much bottom time on Cozumel. And while most visitors to Isla, as the locals call it, are day-trippers, there are plenty of reasons to stick around longer. The west and north coast beaches, especially Playa Norte, are gorgeous white strands that rim placid, shallow waters. There are good restaurants, some of them exceptional, along with plenty of shopping and even a little nightlife.
The best thing about Isla Mujeres is its compact nature. At just five miles long and not more than 400 yards wide, the island can be explored on foot. If you do get worn out from walking, taxis are abundant (just look for the bright-red Nissans) and comparatively cheap (five bucks from one end of the island to the other). You can also get around with golf carts, bikes and motor scooters, all widely available for rent.
MI CASA ES ROLANDI'S CASA: The island's newest luxury abode - Hotel Villa Rolandi, Gourmet & Beach Club - sits on the less kinetic south side. It's the latest offering from Swiss chef/hotelier Sandro Muller, who launched the first of his four area restaurants, Pizza Rolandi, in Cancun almost 30 years ago. This gemlike hotel lives up to its foodie billing with an open-air restaurant on a sprawling deck that overlooks the bay and, at night, Cancun's not-so-distant necklace of lights. The Italian-Mexican specialties include homemade black fettucini with prawns, and terrific pizza and breads from a wood-fired oven. The 20 suites, glistening with Italian marble, all feature balcony Jacuzzis and steam baths.
DOWNTOWN DIGS: Since you're never more than a five-minute walk from the beach, those who can live without an oceanfront suite can find good hotel values in the small downtown area. Hotel Frances Arlene sits just a block from the ocean and a block from Avenida Hidalgo, the pedestrian-only shopping thoroughfare. Ask for one of the two penthouse rooms (about $60 per night) to enjoy the best breezes and sweeping rooftop views of the island.
SUSTENANCE IN THE SUN: You can hardly go wrong at any of the numerous restaurants near the ferry dock in town. What's fresh is seafood, so order it, especially ceviche (a heaping bowl of marinated fish, conch, squid and octopus goes for about $6). Seek out El Sol Garden Dorado on Av. Abasolo just off the main shopping district. In a cozy courtyard setting, chef Marta Concha serves up wonderful Mayan seafood specialties like grouper achiota ($6), along with more typical Mexican fare. For breakfast, huevos moduleños (fried eggs atop tortillas spread with refried beans, cheese and salsa for $4) are a fine way to start the day. The real bargain is found at Carmelita's on Av. Benito Juarez, where the $2.75 special gets you a lunch of pork or fish with a plateful of rice and beans.
ISLA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB: Late afternoon is the time to start palapa-hopping along Playa Norte. You can visit one beachside bar after another until you end up at Hotel Na-Balam, where live entertainment is provided by visiting Cuban bands or La Trova Isleña, a local band that features three generations of island musicians.
BE THERE ON THE SQUARE: The place to chill out early on Saturday and Sunday evenings is the plaza. Here you'll find families out for a stroll, along with plenty of food and drink vendors. Try your hand at La Loteria, placing a one-peso bet on a grid of 64 squares marked by various symbols - spider, guitar, scorpion, moon - while the old man who runs the operation rolls the dice to see who wins.
YOU GOTTA TRY IT: The fishing is good in nearby waters, and there are plenty of willing captains who specialize in light-tackle angling for barracuda and dorado, or sailfish and marlin for more serious anglers. Spend a few minutes nosing around the beach near the ferry docks, and you can probably wrangle a half-day trip for about $60.
Posted online 06/01/01.
