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Photo by: Zach Stovall

No doubt the global recession is a hardship for many on Anguilla. In some respects, however, the downturn may actually prove to be a blessing in disguise for this beach-tastic British territory 10 miles east of St. Martin. The doldrums moved in just as Anguilla – an island of 35 square miles inhabited by only 13,000 people – was on the threshold of a development surge that would have massively expanded tourism's footprint, which currently amounts to a mere 1,200 rooms spread among a relative handful of hotels, villas and guesthouses. Glaringly, the long-anticipated Temenos resort – with a planned 650 rooms in estate homes, condos and a hotel – has been languishing in financial limbo. Construction came to a standstill with a little more than half the resort built, and the Greg Norman-designed golf course was closed down. Now Anguilla is being forced to consider whether its planned luxury resort building boom is sustainable and in the best interests of the island and its people. At the same time, there remains here a palpable pulse of entrepreneurship and an evolving landscape of attractions for visitors.

Anguilla Essentials: Where to Go, Where to Stay and What to Do...

UPGRADES AND OPENINGS

Two of the island's five-star stalwarts are carrying on as if impervious to the prevailing economic winds. Celebrity-magnet Cap Juluca recently completed the first phase of a projected $80-million gut renovation initiated by owners who took over last year. The common areas have all been re-done in stunning fashion, with furnishings and décor straight from Morocco; the resort's three restaurants have been recast by new executive chef René Bajeux; and a comfortably sophisticated barroom lounge called Maundays Club has been added in the interests of conviviality. The restaurants and bar of this gorgeous resort provide a point of entry for visitors staying elsewhere. Traditionally closed for September and October, Cap Juluca just announced that it is staying open all year and is offering free-night deals on top of low-season rates to attract guests.

Early this year, CuisinArt Resort & Spa unveiled a sleek $10-million expansion of its Venus Spa and Fitness Center which, at 27,000 square feet, is now one of the largest in the Caribbean. Highlights include couples' suites with steam rooms and Jacuzzis, and a Healing Waters Pool, where therapists administer gentle massages to clients afloat in body-temperature salt water. This summer CuisinArt added six villas to its 93 hotel accommodations and brought in executive chef Daniel Le Guenan, a Frenchman who says he's having fun with "Meditarribean" cuisine at Santorini restaurant.

Just now joining the elite company is Viceroy Anguilla Resort & Residences, opening in phases this summer and fall on 35 acres fronting Barnes Bay and Meads Bay. All told, the property will comprise 166 rooms in a small hotel, villas and townhouses. Its high-design style represents a departure from the island's whitewashed Mediterranean motif. As part of the launch, rooms are being offered at two nights for the price of one through October 31.

In the affordable category, a locally owned B&B called La Vue opened this spring on Back Street, in the lively South Hill neighborhood high on a bluff overlooking Sandy Ground and Road Bay Harbour. Its spacious one- and two-bedroom apartments are being introduced at $130 to $165 a night, an incredible value on an island not known for economical accommodations. "If you're looking for perfection, this is not the place," says affable owner Kirk Hughes. "But if you want a comfortable, welcoming feeling, we have a place for you." One could design a smart Best of Anguilla vacation that included several days of beach hopping while based at La Vue, capped by a couple of days of cocooning at one of the posh beachfront hotels.

BLOSSOMING BOUTIQUES

Next to La Vue, find colorful island clothing, including sundresses, beachwear and very cool T-shirts, in the two distinct storefronts of Irie Life. The shop's vitality is evidence of Anguilla's improved shopping options, which include the new ZaZAA Boutique in Shoal Bay. The merch reflects the bold, eclectic tastes of owner Sue Ricketts, a longtime doyenne of the island's hospitality scene. It's a miniature souk, complete with Malian jewelry, Kenyan fabrics, bikinis from Brazil and fashions from nearby St. Barts. Wares range from well-chosen tchotchkes that cost a few dollars to spendy pieces of statement jewelry.

ART ATTACK

The centerpiece of the constantly evolving Art Café in the neglected East End fishing village of Little Harbour is a clever gallery designed by owner Jan Pavluk, a Polish exile via New York. He invites artists from overseas to paint in a studio and showcases the work they produce, fresh fusions of cosmopolitan aesthetics and island subject matter. The space also includes a bar/café; a shop that sells a hard-to-get, eco-friendly Danish clothing line; and antique maps and prints. An event space upstairs hosts recitals, some performed by a Russian concert pianist who's taken up residence in Anguilla. Not your everyday Caribbean café!

BURGERS IN PARADISE

Reggae Reef Beachfront Grill, an unassuming-looking new restaurant on the beach in Sandy Ground next to the ever-popular Johnno's, serves surprisingly good food: fresh fish, Black Angus burgers, ribs and a fish soup that's better than it needs to be. Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights you'll also hear live local music.

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