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Bright Lights, Old CityA sea-salt-scented air of sophistication is sweeping over the city of Cartagena de Indias on Colombia's Caribbean coast, as 17th-century mansions and monasteries are being reborn as style-conscious inns with rooftop pools and a handful of rooms tricked out with Spanish tiles and iPod docking stations. The ongoing resurrection of the city's walled center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has also caught the attention of cruise lines, several of which are now opting to start or end their Western Caribbean sailings at this picturesque port. Not bad for a country most Americans still associate only with kilos and car bombs. POST-COLONIAL CACHET The boutique hotel craze began in the old city with the six-room, colonial-style Agua four years ago and quickly expanded to the more contemporary Quadrifolio, whose eight suites were designed by top Colombian architect Miguel Soto Casas. The 19th-century building that's home to La Passion received a Republican-style makeover in the 20th century and a 21st-century upgrade for the hotel's opening last year. The owners rescued hidden murals and wall trims and added Andalusian and Arab influences, such as Persian carpets and hand-carved Moroccan doors. A spa is in the works for 2009.Further evidence of the boom in accommodations: dozens of restored colonial mansions and townhouses scattered about the old city and rented out by the day, week or month. For rates ranging from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars a day, the agency La Heroica will hand you the key to one of these atmospheric old gems - some of them complete with Spanish-tiled pools, lushly planted stone courtyards and a small army of attendants.DINNER AND DRINKS In the late afternoon, those in the know head to Café del Mar, a funky open-air bar spread out atop the old 40-foot city walls, where, with a mojito to keep you company, you can watch the sun sink into the harbor. Then on to the contemporary Colombian offerings at El Santísimo, like chango (red snapper stewed in coconut milk, cilantro and lime) or octopus filet in red curry sauce. La Vitrola favors Old World style, with black-and-white photos and high ceiling fans that hark back to Hemingway's Havana. Dine there on squid carpaccio, ceviche and curried prawns. Reservations are a must.Late in the evening, the trend-conscious and free-spending head to BaBar, the "it" lounge and dance club featuring top DJs. But the sidewalk cafés and nightspots around Plaza de San Diego and Plaza de Santo Domingo are far dreamier.EXURBAN ESCAPES Day trips to nearby islands and sheltered beaches within a speedboat ride of the city make for easy sun worship. In 40 minutes you can ferry over to Playa Blanca on Isla de Barú, where tables-in-the-sand restaurants serve lobster, crab, oysters and whatever else the resident fishermen have pulled out of transparent Caribbean waters.A few miles further southwest lie the Rosario Islands, a string of coral-fronted outposts that form the Corales del Rosario National Park. Hop on one of Las Tortugas Dive School's full-day dive or snorkel tours, which depart from Cartagena every day.INSPIRED SETTINGAlthough set in an unnamed city, for many Colombian's the 2007 film version of Gabriel Garcia-Marquez's 1988 novel Love in the Time of Cholera could not have been shot anywhere but Cartagena. Filmmakers used 83 locations, many of them standard stops on the Paseos en Coche tour. Guides on the 20-to-60-minute, horse drawn carriage tours of the historic center - some of which include a singer and wine - are quick to point out the writer's sometime home at the corner of Calle del Curato near the Convent of Santa Clara (which is now a Sofitel). Of Love and Other Demons, based on another Garcia-Marquez novel, began filming in Cartagena in the spring of 2008.Click here to check out more JUST BACK destination spotlights