Towering new luxury hotels, condos and construction sites pepper Boulevard Kulkulcán, the Vegas-like artery of Cancún's Hotel Zone. And waves of big change keep sweeping the shores of the Riviera Maya, the 81-mile stretch between Puerto Morelos and Tulum that now boasts 30,000 rooms to Cancún's 22,000. The growth spurt is even spreading to sleepy Isla Mujeres, where new resorts are springing up next to family-run guesthouses and villas.
Pillow Menu
The former Meliá Turquesa reopened in January 2007 as the Me by Meliá, a chic, modernist 448-room resort. Sunday brunch at its Mediterranean restaurant, Salt, is a Cancunense favorite. 800-336-3542; mebymelia.com
Just off the main highway between Puerto Morelos and Cancún, the awe-inspiring 587-acre development at Mayakobá ("city on the water") is home to the new Rosewood Mayakobá (011-52-984-875-8000; rosewoodmayakoba.com) and the Fairmont Mayakobá, where golf carts, water taxis and bicycles are essential for navigating the sprawling 401-room, 47-acre property.
More than 300 plush casitas are tucked into the mangroves over snaking lagoons, and well-heeled privacy seekers will appreciate the $5,000-a-night presidential suite that sits on its own island. 800-441-1414; fairmont.com
Homier digs can be found in the heart of Playa del Carmen at Hotel Lunata. All 10 rooms at the three-story inn on Playa's main drag, Fifth Avenue, have been recently refreshed and feature river-stone-tiled showers, traditional wood furniture and hacienda-style décor. 011-52-984-873-0884; lunata.com
Dining Around
Chef John Gray continues to expand his regional empire with his third restaurant, Grill 14, in Cancún, where high-powered executives pull up to the dock or the restaurant's helipad to feast on extravagant business lunches. Don't miss Gray's specialty, roast duck breast with chipotle chili, tequila and honey (also offered at his Playa and Puerto Morelos locations) or the all-grown-up mac and cheese with truffle oil. 011-52-998-840-6146; grill14.com
Further down the boulevard -- and a refreshing departure in a town where U.S. restaurant chains reign supreme -- is Santos Mariscos, a new, unpretentious and authentic Mexican restaurant whimsically decorated in the style of a humble barrio home. A mainly local crowd gathers at the bar to watch soccer games over cervezas. Be sure to try the reasonably priced tacos accompanied by dollops of tamarind and strawberry salsa. 011-52-998-840-6300
'Round Midnight
Few places rock a party like Cancún, where the local crowd dines late and parties even later at hip hangouts like cavernous nightclub Coco Bongo (011-52-998-883-5061; cocobongo.com.mx), the uber-chic, open-air Thai Lounge at La Isla shopping village (011-44-998-144-0364) or swanky new Kulkulcán "resto-bar" Bling (011-52-998-840-6015). Show up after 11 p.m. and you'll be right on time.
Isla Bonita
Ten dollars and 40 minutes on the Mexicano ferry take you a world away from the hustle of Cancún to the laid-back sands of Isla Mujeres, eight miles away. Few businesses accept credit cards, so bring cash to rent a scooter or golf cart and spend the day touring the 5-mile-long island. Swim and snorkel at quiet beaches and refuel at waterfront seafood shacks downtown, where Restaurant Velasquez (011-52-998-844-6763) will fry you up a fresh fish and fixings for just $5. If your day trip turns into an overnight escape, bed down at homey B&B Villa La Bella (011-52-998-888-0342; villalabella.com), where the made-from-scratch piña coladas are outstanding, or stay at the spanking-new 89-room UNIK Resort. 877-888-8645; unikresorts.com
Online Editor's Note: Check out our feature Off the Gringo Grid for a look at the lush landscapes, empty beaches and traditional culture that lies beyond the booming Riviera Maya.
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