The air along St. Lucia's coast is infused with sweet jasmine and sea mist. The view from the twisting, turning road reveals deep valleys, a rocky shoreline and tiny, picturesque fishing villages. The island is one sprawling garden, and I'm heading for the middle of Eden. The Jalousie Plantation is a 325-acre retreat nestled at the foot of the Pitons, the twin volcanic formations that dominate the scene.
The resort is built on the site of a former sugar plantation, and remnants of the mill and the great house, which has a restaurant, game room, bars and shops, lend an Old-World charm. Clusters of sorbet-colored suites ¯offering mountain, forest or sea vistas ¯ are clustered around banyan and palm trees. I walk along pathways past tropical-colored villas, each with its own private entrance offering seclusion. My garden suite is set under a dense canopy of trees, and I enter to find that the bedroom and spacious bathroom are scattered with bougainvillea blossoms for my arrival. After selecting a cold Piton beer from the fully stocked outdoor minibar, I settle into the large sitting area to relax.
The next morning I have breakfast on my patio and watch the sun fill the sky. Orange juice, dark roasted coffee with hot milk, a basket of pastries, eggs and a platter of fresh tropical fruits are delivered right to my table. I'm surrounded by rich red hibiscus blooms, star jasmine and allamanda. Penta and plumbago attract butterflies and hummingbirds with their sweet nectar.
I lounge with a book while I wait for the morning rains to retreat ¯ since the Jalousie lies in the heart of a lush rain forest, intermittent showers are not uncommon. The weather clears, and I take a short walk down to the beach where I settle in at the pool, my chaise facing the sea, a Tropical Berry Cooler in hand. Sandwiches and snacks are served here, with more substantial dining at Bayside, the adjacent outdoor bar and restaurant. For dinner I'll have to choose between the fresh catch at the waterfront Pier restaurant and the elegant Plantation Room, where waiters in white jackets deliver elegant creations.
In the afternoon, I sign on for beachside spa treatments ¯ a banana facial and coconut foot rub ¯ given in an open-air gazebo fronting the sea. More sophisticated body treatments are available in a series of massage rooms, adjacent to golf, tennis and a fitness center. To end my afternoon, I take a dip in the pool, situated on a high deck. It looks as though I could reach out and touch the Pitons. I'm told that visitors can hike those grandiose mountains, but I'll have to save that for my next trip.
Posted online 04/10/02.
