For most people, the thought of shopping in the United States Virgin Islands conjures images of duty-free stores packed with die-hard consumers hunting for bargains and dodging sales tax. But look beyond the designer boutiques and souvenir stands and you'll find a number of artists honing their crafts -- and making their mark --on St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix.
SWEET MEMORIES
The exotic aroma of tropical fruit leads you, nose first, through the open door of Cheryl's Taste of Paradise, a foodstuffs shop at St. Thomas' Compass Point Marina. A peek inside reveals Cheryl Miller in her tiny kitchen, fusing North American cooking techniques with West Indian ingredients to whip up batches of her prize-winning Hot Mango Momma Jam and Caribbean Sunburn Hotter Sauce.
Family-owned Cruzan Rum makes a spirited souvenir from St. Croix. The line has expanded from its original Premium Light and Dark rums to such tasty blends as banana and mango.
For an extra dose of sugar, try a Virgin Islands Rum Cake in an assortment of flavors, including Calypso Coconut or Gourmet Coffee. The alcohol-soaked goodies are made at Frank's Bake Shop and sold at the Virgin Islands Rum Cake Centre, located in the Havensight Mall east of bustling Charlotte Amalie. Heed proprietress Brigitte Bornn's advice and stop in early, before the cruise-ship passengers clear out her stock.
Havensight Mall is home to another Cruzan-infused delight, Caribbean Rum Balls. Owner Martin Missen uses the original family recipe brought over from Germany in the 1970s, and factory workers still hand-roll and -package an average of 10,000 balls a day. Stop by and they might even invite you to pitch in.
MAKING SCENTS
Frangipani, hibiscus and passionflower not only deck St. Thomas in a blanket of color, they also fill the air with an intoxicating scent. Island Fragrance takes advantage of this natural bounty with three lines of perfumes and body products that capture the essence of the tropics: Island Florals and Nauticals, Old Caribbean Apothecary and Caribbean Scents. "Everything I produce represents something that grows here," notes owner Gail Garrison, who uses local ingredients and old-fashioned methods. "And we don't use a single machine."
Another fragrant spot is Caribbean Herbals and Candles at Compass Point, where Jason Budsan adds a Caribbean twist -- such as mango, pineapple or coconut -- to his hand-poured and -crafted candles, then wraps each one in a sea grape leaf. The reusable candles are designed to burn only the center core and can be refilled at Budsan's workshop, or replaced with a simple votive.
STYLISH SOUVENIRS
For a distinctive remembrance of your vacation, try a Sloop Jones shirt, painted by hand at the St. John studio of Terry McKoy and Barbara Alperen. Their brightly colored linen and cotton textiles reflect the flora and hues of the Caribbean and can be found at stores throughout the USVI.
Every new outfit needs a new pair of shoes, and Zora of St. Thomas is happy to oblige. Stop in at her downtown Charlotte Amalie shop to have your feet sized on the first day of your trip, and she'll have your custom-made sandals ready for walking within a week. A second visit for a fitting is a good idea, but even day-trippers can order a pair and have them shipped home.
CRAFTY BUSINESS
A giant green iguana beckons passersby into The Kilnworks Pottery and Art Gallery, where, since 1984, Peggy Siewert has created St. Thomas' only locally made ceramic items. Her signature line, the Lizard Collection, was inspired by visitors who thought live reptiles resting on the bowls were actually part of the pieces. For the most personal of souvenirs, paint your own pottery. Kilnworks will send it to you after it's been glazed and fired.
St. John potter Donald Schnell also finds his muse in the environment, crafting funky ceramics from coral sand. He sells water fountains, sconces, hanging lights, signs and dinnerware at his studio in the Mongoose Junction shopping center, where browsers can watch artists throw clay on potters' wheels before the creations are taken to the downstairs workshop for painting and firing.
Karen Samuel, a St. John artist, paints depictions of local life: a Carnival dancer, an old sugar mill plantation. But the real draw at her Cruz Bay shop, Kareso, is her handmade clothing line, Artistry of Eden. Samuel sews each piece in a little room off to the side of the boutique, which also displays works by other artists such as her brother, Avelino, who carves sea grape, mahogany and black olive woods into decorative vases and bowls. "I love what I'm doing," explains Samuel. "Even if I'm not selling, my reward is in the work itself."
MADE WITH LOVE
Though they may not carry name brands or designer labels, the USVI's homemade goods offer something more valuable: the effort of devoted artisans who pour their hearts into their work. So when you spread a spoonful of Hot Mango Momma Jam on a cracker back home, remember that fruit and fiery peppers aren't the only ingredients you'll taste. Cheryl Miller's passion is in there, too.
Posted online 03/23/04.
