Photo by: Alese & Morton Pechter
When Peter Island Resort closed down for six months in 1997 for a multimillion-dollar renovation, one could be forgiven for wondering if this seemingly snake-bit island in the British Virgins had been chomped again. Ever since it opened in the early 1970s, Peter Island has been trying to break into the first rank of luxury Caribbean resorts. And with some formidable competition in the British Virgins alone - Little Dix, Biras Creek and Necker Island, to mention just three - it has been a tough, uphill climb.
Well, it should be pretty close to the top, especially with this new redo. Under the direction of affable manager Wayne Kafcsak, the resort offers the winning combination of lovely rooms, fine cuisine, a staff that bends over backward to please and lots of amenities, all in a drop-dead lovely setting.
Arrivees at the Beef Island airport are quickly greeted and ushered on board the resort's private launch for the 30-minute ride across the Sir Francis Drake Channel. The main lobby, beautiful pool deck, open-air library and a handful of the resort's 52 rooms are situated between the marina and the gorgeous channel-front view across to Tortola. All the resort's rooms were redecorated in this last go-round in cheerful colors with tasteful wicker and teak furniture.
A collection of rooms overlook the marina in buildings that maintain a steep-pitched homage to the original A-frames that the late Norwegian shipping magnate Peter Smedwig had ferried across the Atlantic when he opened the resort in 1971. While the rooms here are spacious, I'd recommend asking for a beachfront junior suite overlooking the beautiful curve of Deadman's Bay: It's a bit of a walk to the dining room, but the views are nicer.
Deadman's Bay is the center for water-sports, tennis and casual dining, all in view of the rocky waste of Deadman's Chest across the bay: the site of a pirate's punishment that gave us the Yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum ditty. There's a dive shop on site for those who want to visit the wreck of the Rhone on nearby Salt Island, and the resort's own Hatteras motor yachts ferry guests down to The Baths on Virgin Gorda. There is even an Ashore/Afloat package, which allows guests to spend a few nights on their own chartered yacht.Honeymooners and those seeking solitude are ferried up and over the central ridge of the uninhabited island to be dropped with a picnic lunch on the empty White Bay, where there's nothing but white sand, clear water and a few thatched palapas.
But a luxury resort's reputation depends on its staff, and Peter Island has one that's accommodating and friendly. The round-faced Collin Butler likes to serenade honeymooners in his high tenor. Hugh Benji Benjamin, who helped build the place as a mason, now likes to spill stories about the island and its lore. And Chef Wilford Willo Stoutt started washing pots and pans when the resort first opened. Today, he's not only the executive chef, but captain of the BVI's champion competition cuisine team.
So maybe it took 30 years and a couple of fits and starts, but Peter Island has finally arrived in the top ranks.
Summer rates range from US$490-$595 per couple per night; winter prices from US$705-$825. Prices include full American plan daily. Beachfront suites require a seven-night minimum for the winter season, and 10-night minimums are required for all accommodations during the Christmas-New Year's holidays. Various packages are available. For information call 800-346-4451.
