Tourist Information: Puerto Rico Tourism Company, 800-866-7827 or http://welcome.topuertorico.org.

Location: The smallest and most eastern island in the Greater Antilles, Puerto Rico is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean to the north and the Caribbean Sea to the south. The island is 110 miles long by 35 miles wide (about the size of Connecticut).

Topography: The island, populated by more than 3 million people, is very mountainous but also offers rain forests, caves, dry forests, ocean, rivers and more than 200 miles of coastline. Cerro de Punta, the highest peak, stands at 4,460 feet.

Currency: The U.S. dollar is the official currency. All major credit cards and travelers' checks are widely accepted, and ATMs are located in the tourist areas. If you leave the cities and tourist areas it's best to carry cash. Language: Spanish and English are both official languages of Puerto Rico. Spanglish (a combination of both languages) is commonly heard throughout the island.

Climate: The island is warm year-round with highs of 75:F to 85:F. In fact, the U.S. Weather Bureau has never measured temperatures in San Juan below 60:F or above 97:F. The rainiest months are from May to December.

Electricity: 110 volts, 60 cycles AC. Adapters are not necessary.

Time: Atlantic Standard Time, year-round, which is one hour earlier than Eastern

Standard Time.

Area Code: 787. You can dial direct to the U.S. mainland.

Documents: U.S. citizens do not need a visa or passport.

Taxes and Tipping: Tipping follows North American rules. Restaurants usually include the service charge on the bill, but if they don't, a 15-percent tip is expected. Some hotels add a 10-percent service charge, if not, an equivalent tip is necessary. There is a government tax of 7 to 10 percent on hotel rooms. Taxi drivers expect a 15-percent tip. There is no departure tax.

Ground Transportation: Taxis are plentiful in San Juan and other major tourist sites and charge US$1 for initial charge and US$.10 for every additional 1/10 mile. There are set rates for "tourist taxis" between major tourist attractions. Major car rental agencies include: Avis (800-331-1084), Budget (800-527-0700), Discount (877-412-3733) and Hertz (800-654-3001). Minivans known as pzblicos (recognized by the P or PD at the end of the license plate number) link all decent-size towns on the island but do not operate on any set schedule. Ferries operate from Fajardo on the eastern coast to the islands of Vieques and Culebra.

Airlines: American Airlines (800-433-7300), American Trans Air (800-I-FLY-ATA), British Airways (800-247-9297), Continental (800-525-0280), Delta Airlines (800-221-1212), Mexicana (800-433-7300), Northwest Airlines (800-225-2525), TWA (800-221-2000), United (800-241-6522), USAir (800-428-4322). For travel arrangements, call New World Travel at 800-308-SURF.

HOTELS

Coconut Palms, 787-823-0147. With four tidy apartments on a bathing beach, these are popular accommodations for the independent traveler. The balcony includes a barbecue grill for do-it-yourself guest use.

Horned Dorset Primavera, 800-633-1857, 787-823-4030. One of Puerto Rico's finest small hotels. This exclusive inn has 31 rooms, some with private plunge pools, in a colonial hacienda setting on the beach. Its French restaurant is exquisite.

Island West Properties, 787-823-2323. There are many private lodgings to rent in the area and this company can find one for you from US$75 per night for studios to US$500 for luxury villas.

The Lazy Parrot Inn and Restaurant, 800-294-1752, 787-823-5654. This is the leader of the guesthouse pack, with charming Caribbean dicor in each of its 11 unique units, ultra-friendly staff, a pool and excellent indoor/outdoor dining.

Lemontree Waterfront Cottages, 787-823-6452. A series of suites with a tree-house feel on the same beachfront as the Horned Dorset, but at much lower cost.

Parador Villa Antonio, 787-823-2645. Beachfront efficiency suites that are extremely popular with families.

Villa Cofresm Hotel and Restaurant, 787-823-2450. Another casual, family-oriented hotel on a tranquil bathing beach.

The Vista Vacation Resort, 787-823-3673. Each of these nine well-appointed apartments has a balcony overlooking Domes surfing beach. There's a terrific pool and whirlpool spa on site.

RESTAURANTS

Bambino's, 787-823-3744. Located just south of town, this family restaurant is where everyone goes for hearty servings of Italian food at reasonable prices.

El Molino del Quixote, 787-823-4010. Sunset dining on the patio is where it's at. Enjoy Spanish cuisine in a romantic setting and bring your camera. There are rooms available as well. Open Friday and Saturday for dinner and Sunday for lunch and dinner.

The Landing, 787-823-4779. This extremely popular restaurant offers pub food as well as a menu of creative Caribbean cuisine in a stylish beachfront setting. It becomes a hotspot for the younger crowd at night.

Rincsn Tropical Restaurant, 787-823-7108. This eatery located south of town is not much to look at, but locals pack the place for delicious criollo (creole) food. Open every day except Tuesday.

Sandy Beach Inn, 787-823-1146. Perched high on the hill overlooking - you guessed it - Sandy Beach, this restaurant serves delicious fresh seafood on its terrace. It is a good place to spot whales. Sandy Beach also has 13 guestrooms, three with a kitchen.

Tamboo Tavern, 787-823-8550. Located right on Sandy Beach in the back of Beside the Pointe guesthouse, this is where you can get sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks in between sunbathing or surfing.

ACTIVITIES

El Faro means "The Lighthouse." This is Rincsn's major landmark and has been beautifully restored with the grounds serving as one of only two land-based whale-watching parks in the world. The whales frolic in the area from December to mid-April. The tacky cafeteria is unfortunate considering the incredible location, but the rest is beautiful. There are surfing beaches on either side. The gift shop, The Eco-Logic-Co., 787-823-1252, is owned by artist and naturalist Hector Colsn, who designed most of the T-shirts and also offers ecological tours.

Tropical Beaches and Country Tours, 800-635-2902. Juan Cruz is a tour operator par excellence and will take groups (minimum of three) sightseeing to caverns, a nearby bioluminescent bay, small towns, hiking ... Ask and ye shall receive.

West Coast Surf Shop on the main square, 787-823-3935, rents boards for US$20 per day and can refer you to local surf instructors. For beginning surfers, get a headstart before you travel and read Learn to Surf by James MacLaren (The Lyons Press 1997). With more than 30 years of surfing experience, MacLaren emphasizes learning at your own pace as safely as possible and while having as much fun as possible. Available at surf shops and through major online book sellers.

Posted online 06/01/00.