The Devil's Backbone, Harbour Island, Eleuthera

The pink-sand beach on Harbour Island off Eleuthera, one of the Bahamas' Out Islands, is a perennial finisher on everyone's Top Ten lists of the world's best beaches.

Pity the poor souls who never make it into the water!

The Devil's Backbone has for centuries been a navigational hazard for ships passing by, and for good reason: The shallow coral heads have snagged many an unsuspecting keel.

But for those passing by with fins and masks, the Devil's Backbone is much friendlier, as those same coral heads shelter an amazing diversity of underwater life. Because the reef runs parallel to the beach at Harbour Island, anyone who can swim a few yards gets a free ticket to the show.

You can glide over the elkhorn-shaped coral and past lacy sea fans and bulbous brain coral. Schools of curious, rainbow-colored fish dart around, staring back at human visitors with interest.

Any of the dive shops or beach concessions on the island will rent snorkel gear. Just don't step on any of the beached sun-worshippers on your way to see the real show!

Posted online 06/01/99.