WESTERN CIVILIZATION
While some hotels constantly add amenities spas, golf courses, conference rooms to offer everything to everyone, Puerto Rico's Horned Dorset Primavera is happy to do just one thing: provide excellent service in an elegant, tranquil setting.
The hotel is far removed from the crowded Condado, and it's not on the north coast nexus either. It's way out west, the 31 rooms set on 4 rolling acres with dramatic views of the sea and impeccable landscaping that separates you from the rest of the world.
The road here passes an area more arid than most tropical regions, but turning up the drive, we enter an oasis, the Mediterranean-style buildings and lush grounds glowing in the afternoon light.
As I step into the open reception area, attentive staff lead me to my room. An exquisite four-poster mahogany bed is covered in down bedding, the bathroom is completely crafted in marble and French doors open onto a private balcony that's so close to the sea I could almost dive in from here. The resort was built in 1987 before regulations mandating deeper setbacks from the ocean were in place.
Taking a dip is exactly what I plan to do after I get a cocktail. I look to check the time, but there's no clock in my room; no TV or radio, either. The Horned Dorset prides itself on taking away anything that distracts from the natural beauty and peacefulness. In most hotels, this would be a handicap, but the Horned Dorset isn't most hotels.
I make my way past blooming bougainvillea, back to the reception area where Wilhelm Sack greets me like an old friend: ''Hello! How are you doing? How is everything?'' Sack is the recipient of the Puerto Rico Hotel and Tourism Association's 2001 Hotelier of the Year award and one of the most genuinely amiable people I've ever met.
His Austrian accent makes me think of Arnold Schwarzenegger, which is quite funny because Sack is all of about 4 1/2 feet tall, and the biggest muscle he flexes is his mouth when he smiles.
He chats with me until a Tanqueray and tonic is placed in my hand and I'm on my way to the water.
Swimming is pretty much the main activity here, either in the warm Caribbean (the staff will bring you snorkel gear) or in the large pool. Unless, of course, you count eating as an activity, which at the Horned Dorset, you most definitely should.
Though breakfast and lunch are casual affairs delivered to your room, served on a small terrace or enjoyed poolside the Horned Dorset has a way of making even oatmeal and sandwiches seem elegant. It's partly the exotic fruits that accompany the dishes, and partly the stillness of the fresh sea air. Mostly, it's the magic of the Horned Dorset.
Dinner is an entirely different affair. The large formal dining room is on the second floor, with black and white marble tiles, mahogany accents and a balcony that overlooks the sea. Sanjuaneros come from the other end of the island to dine here. Candles cast a glow over the five-course dinners or the eight-course tasting menu. Executive chef Aaron Wratten creates an endless array of imaginative dishes lobster salad, pumpkin soup with prosciutto, thyme-braised veal cheeks while my waiter selects just the right wines. Excess is essential here, so, naturally, there's a full-time pastry chef.
In between bouts of gustatory delight, there are plenty of diversions. There's a small fitness center, and the staff will arrange any excursion you can think of: scuba diving, a visit to the nearby Arecibo Observatory or the ancient Taíno ball courts, even a whale-watching expedition. But wherever I go, I'm always anxious to get back to my room and throw the French doors open to the sound of the crashing surf.
The Horned Dorset's rooms range from luxurious to ultraluxe, and suit a variety of needs (as long as you leave children under 12 at home). Some rooms have pools, private sun decks or huge black marble baths; all are decorated with rich furniture and colorful accents. The largest building, Casa Escondida, has eight individual king rooms and a conference center. The best news is that there's more to come: 22 deluxe suites are scheduled to open in February 2002.
It's no mystery why the Horned Dorset is part of the exclusive Relais & Chateaux network. The only mystery is why you haven't been here yet.
Posted online 12/07/01.
