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Photo by: Bob Friel

Dramatic geography – tall peaks and a deeply scalloped coastline – divides this island into numerous destinations. Getting around is slow but rewarding, with vistas or villages around nearly every headland. The north, centered on Rodney Bay, offers classic beach diversions, developed tourist facilities, and larger hotels and resorts. The south, with  as the main town, features the island's main attractions – the Pitons, the marine park, the rainforest and the "volcano" (actually sulfurous vents pumping out rotten-eggy gasses), along with a collection of small, distinctive hotels.

WHERE TO STAY

CAP MAISON
Style: Tuscan villas reimagined as condo suites
Location: Atop a cliff just north of Rodney Bay
Accommodations: Two-story villas house 49 rooms and fully equipped suites that can be combined to create accommodations up to 3,000 square feet; bedrooms are air-conditioned. 

Rates: Rooms from $405 and suites from $645 in low season ($565 and $865 high)
Amenities: Suites have plunge pools, plus there's a resort pool and spa. The Cliff restaurant serves eclectic international and offers the best view of any north-end eatery. "
Contact: 888-765-4985; capmaison.com

FOND DOUX PLANTATION
Style: Classic Creole in an authentic plantation setting
Location: Soufrière Quarter
Accommodations: 10 Creole cottages with verandas
Rates: From $100 in low season ($150 high) 

Amenities: Pool; extensive gardens; cultural attractions, including cocoa production; excellent restaurant serving local specialties
Contact: 758-459-7545; fonddouxestate.com

JADE MOUNTAIN
Style: Top-of-
the-world and open to the elements 

Location: Soufrière, Pitons views

Accommodations: 24 architecturally eye-popping infinity pool suites, plus five Jacuzzi suites
Rates: From $900 in low season ($1,150 high)
Amenities: Dive operation, excellent snorkeling beach, spa, restaurant helmed by James Beard Award-winning chef Allen Susser, meals and spa treatments available as room service
Contact: 800-223-1108; 
jademountain.com

MARIGOT BAY HOTEL
Style: Sleek Asian-inspired boutique hotel
Location: Lush Marigot Bay, on the island's west coast
Accommodations: 66 rooms with balconies and bay views; 
56 suites with their own Jacuzzi pools
Rates: Rooms from $365 and suites from $685 in low season ($455 and $785 high)
Amenities: Two pools, an infinity-edge overlooking the bay and a lagoon pool with a swim-up bar; spa with Zen Garden; fine-dining Boudreau Restaurant
Contact: 758-458-5300; marigotbay.com

WHAT TO DO

Gros Piton Ascents
Summit attempts are made every day from the village of Fond Gens Libre. Highly trained guides lead hikers of all ages to the peak of the big Piton, but attempts is the key word. The first part is a walk in the park, including stops to examine local flora and brigand hide-outs. After that, the climb gets steep. Two hours trekking through tropical jungle is a serious workout, but the views of Petit Piton and the surrounding area are just reward. Tours run $30 and can be arranged through your hotel or by calling 758-489-0136.

Snorkeling & Diving
In the shadow of the Pitons lie outstanding reefs, walls and pinnacles. The Soufrière Marine Management Area protects a large stretch of coast, and you'll find the best snorkeling just a few fin kicks off Anse Chastanet Beach. Based at Anse Chastanet resort, Scuba St. Lucia (758-459-7755; scubastlucia.com) offers guided snorkel tours for $20.

Anse La Raye Fish Fry 
Every Friday, 8 p.m. until the fun runs out. Fish, conch, lobster - only the local barracudas get fresher seafood. Don't let the name fool you - you'll also find plenty of grilled goodies at this family-friendly "fry." Full lobster dinners can cost as much on the street as they do in a restaurant, but it's great fun to gobble a fritter here, a shrimp kebab there as you graze among the booths.

Gros Islet Jump-Up
Every Friday from 9 p.m. until at least 1 a.m. This one is for the party people. While some vendors grill food, the focus here lies more on socializing, queuing at rum and beer booths and streetfront bars, and grooving to loud music. Truck-size speakers pump the beat through the mass of bodies assembled at the village crossroads, a surprisingly varied crowd, from those in their 20s to rocking retirees, with the mix moving more local the later it gets.

WHAT TO KNOW

Tourist information: stlucia.org

Documents: U.S. and Canadian 
citizens must have passports. 


Getting There: American Airlines 
offers nonstop daily service from Miami; Delta has daily nonstops from Atlanta. JetBlue has three flights a week, and USAirways flies once a week from Charlotte, North Carolina. American Eagle offers a daily service from San Juan, Puerto Rico, connecting to major international gateways.

Dialing In: 1 + 758 + seven-digit number

Currency: East Caribbean dollar (US$1 = approxi-
mately 2.66 XCD), but almost all businesses accept U.S. dollars.

Getting Around: The island's official Tourist Board website – stlucia.org – has a complete list of rental car agencies – both local and international – in its Travel Planner section. There are a ridiculous number of taxi drivers on the island, so you'd expect the fares to be relatively cheap. They're not. Figure at least $100 to Rodney Bay from the Hewanorra 
International Airport.

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