Continued from The Caribbean's Coolest Beach Towns: Negril, Jamaica...Rincón, Puerto Rico
SURF'S UP
Laid-back American surf culture meets Puerto Rican warmth in easygoing Rincón, on the westernmost tip of the island. The town is set on a lush and mountainous peninsula famed for its spectacular sunsets and bordered by golden-sand beaches and teeming reefs, but what really put the enclave on the map are the huge waves that crash against the northern shore. Back in 1968, Rincón hosted an international surfing competition, and when its few hotels ran out of rooms, residents opened their homes to surfers from all over the world; Rincón has since become an essential stop on the Caribbean surfing safari, and in season, it seems as if almost every car in town has a board or two strapped to the roof.
Today Rincón is a bustling town of 15,000 with a relaxed year-round scene. Surfers ride swells as high as 25 feet from November to February; visitors come to observe the humpback whale migration that begins in March; there's an international film festival every April and a triathlon in June; and in the summer months, the town is a go-to vacation spot for local families. Nevertheless, Rincón has retained its casual, small-town charm. There are no megaresorts, just a small collection of guesthouses and midsize hotels. In the pueblo, Pilates and yoga studios, health food stores and art galleries surround the central plaza; surf shops hang their shingles, as do businesses with names such as Surf's Up Coffee and Playa Oeste Surf Art Gallery.
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HANG TEN
The surfing action starts where the Atlantic meets the Caribbean at spots such as Maria's Beach (look out for the Surfer Crossing street sign); Steps Beach in the Tres Palmas Marine Reserve; and Domes Beach, named for the abandoned nuclear reactor on its shore. While in the wintertime these strands are best suited to strong swimmers, during the summer the waters are calm and the beaches are quiet and ideal for romantic seclusion. Since it's less than 10 minutes' drive from one side of the peninsula to the other, visitors can beach-hop until they find the one that suits them best.
Even if you're not a surfer, you can still enjoy the town's carefree lifestyle and eight miles of sand. Rincón's main drag, Route 413, winds through the hillsides down to the northern border of the peninsula, where there's calm water and good snorkeling at Pools Beach, plenty of activity and pickup volleyball at popular Sandy Beach, tranquility and beachcombing for sea glass at Antonio's Beach, and kid-friendly tidal pools at River Mouth beach. You can also spot turtles and the occasional dolphin in a kayak or on a stand-up paddle board. In the winter, Rincón Lighthouse Park is a perfect vantage point for whale watching.
SHORE LEAVE
When it's time to eat, head back to the sand. You can't come to Rincón without sampling a pirata at Villa Cofresí Hotel & Restaurant. Rincón's original hotel is still going strong - just like its signature five-rum cocktail, served beachfront at el Bohio. Make your way to Calypso Café for a fish burrito and a bird's-eye view of the surfers at Maria's Beach, and catch the sunset at this popular hangout where reggae bands play on the weekend. Tamboo Seaside Grill at Sandy Beach serves superb food, a great mojito and live Sunday-night Cuban music, while sushi is on the menu at the Pool Bar overlooking Pools Beach.
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GO THERE
Continental, Delta and JetBlue fly into Aguadilla, just under an hour's drive from Rincón. Three hours' drive away, San Juan is served by Air Canada, American, AirTran, Continental, Delta, JetBlue, Spirit, Northwest, United and US Airways.
STAY THERE
Villa Cofresí - Rooms at this beachfront hotel begin at $125 in low season ($135 high), including breakfast. 787-823-2450; villacofresi.com
Tres Sirenas Beachfront Inn - A four-room, boutique B&B with rooms from $125 in low season ($175 high). 787-823-0558; tressirenas.com
MORE INFO
800-866-7827; gotopuertorico.com
