*If you don't want to do the driving, most of the "out-island" resorts and adventure operations provide pickup and drop-off at the San Juan area hotels.

*Don't forego staying at any of the paradores - small country inns - that are intimate, personal and quite often beautiful. A partial list can be obtained by asking for the Paradores of Puerto Rico brochure from the Puerto Rico Tourism Company (800-223-6530).

*A hint on auto exploration in Puerto Rico: Forget the maps from the rental-car center or hotel desk and get a real road map. If you don't, don't say we didn't warn you.

*If you see a tourist office along the road, stop; you'll find incredibly helpful and knowledgeable folks inside who have even more detailed maps for the separate locales.

*Metropolitan San Juan is a big city, and just like Seattle, Houston or Minneapolis, there are places you'd best not visit. The island's countryside is beautiful, varied and as safe as home. Use common sense.

*Most people speak English (it's mandatory in school). As always, try out your Spanish - they appreciate it.

*The maximum speed limit is 55 mph. The use of directional signals is not always common! Road signs are in Spanish, so learn the basics.

*The center of the island is mountainous, and "shortcuts" can be anything but. (We took a 30-mile "shortcut" on a tortuous, yet beautiful, road that took us 2-1/2 hours, and we got seasick negotiating the switchbacks.

Posted online 08/01/98.