While Negril is known as one of Jamaica's hot spots for bustling beaches, luxury hotels and nonstop music, a small estate just east of town offers the perfect counterpoint -- a pastoral encounter with nature. Guided horseback excursions at Rhodes Hall Plantation give visitors a glimpse of the real magic and mystery of the Jamaican countryside.
Don't worry if you aren't the jockey type. My wife, Ayelet, and I had little riding experience before visiting Rhodes Hall. At first we were somewhat daunted by the prospect of a two-hour ride but were quickly put at ease when we met our guide, a tall, weathered man with a name straight out of 1930s Hollywood -- Losh LaRue.
LaRue is originally from Montego Bay, where for years he drove a horse and carriage before moving to the countryside. LaRue's good nature and fine instruction quickly eased our anxiety. We practiced basic horsemanship for a few minutes and then set out on a trail that wound up gradually through the foothills, where a cool morning breeze took the edge off the tropical sun.
LaRue, a natural entertainer, told stories and showed off his local knowledge, pointing out plants, fruits and herbs: avocado, guava, coconut, breadfruit, yam, wild tobacco, all-spice and an assortment of wild teas.
Midway through the ride, we came to a clearing at the top of a hill and looked out on a spectacular view of Negril and Bloody Bay. LaRue whipped out a machete and hacked open a young coconut. We sat back in our saddles and passed around the sweet coconut water while enjoying the vista. LaRue regaled us with the story of Bloody Bay and how it got its name when local Arawak Amerindians attacked Columbus' men as they tried to make landfall. Legend says the bay turned "red with blood" in the ensuing battle.
Back on the trail, we rode through a forest of banana trees and coconut palms. The final leg of our journey had our horses wading the shallows along a white-sand beach before ending up at Crocodile River.
"Yes, there are crocs on the river," said LaRue as we spied one sunning itself on a not-too distant bank. "You come back next time and I'll introduce you to the rest of the family."
Rhodes Hall Plantation offers a variety of horseback excursions that last from 30 minutes to two hours and cost US$30-$50 per person, including round-trip transportation from any hotel in the Negril area. For more information call 876-957-6334; fax 876-957-6333, or visit the Negril section of www.fantasyisle.com.
-- Jay Kohn
Posted online 11/01/99.
