Of all the many allures the Caribbean holds for us urban-bound, workaday types, perhaps the greatest is just this: a rope hammock strung between two palm trees, offering a shaded, wind-kissed view of an achingly bright-white beach washed by water that changes from turquoise to aqua to indigo.

I'm thinking that this is what the Caribbean is all about as I sway gently in my hammock outside the Soggy Dollar Bar at the Sandcastle resort on White Bay on Jost Van Dyke in the British Virgins. A little lizard crawls out from the sea-grape bush and seems to nod his head in agreement. But of course, he lives here, the lucky lizard bastard.

The next bay over is more famous, home to Foxy's Tamarind Bar and a handful of other restaurants and night spots that attract the yachting crowd. White Bay is a difficult anchorage, with a tricky reef guarding the entrance and a rolling surge inside. And there's no dock, so getting onto the beach means getting wet (which is why the beach bar is called the Soggy Dollar).

But that's good, because it keeps the riff-raff away. Only dedicated lovers of nothingness, or those addicted to the original recipe for Painkillers, said to have originated at the Soggy Dollar, brave the obstacles. The Sandcastle resort is very small and expensive, and the only other accommodations on the broad, white beach are at the White Bay Campgrounds way down at the other end.

So it's easy to commandeer a hammock, and the views are generally undisturbed by things human. Time not only stands still on White Bay, it positively becomes meaningless. The only important question to answer is: Should I have another Painkiller or pay attention to this dangerous buzzing in my ears? It's an easy one to answer.

That lucky lizard will stand guard for a couple hours while I close my eyes and dream my Caribbean dreams.

Posted online 12/01/98.