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Caribbean Secrets Exposed: Affordable Curacao

There’s something for culture vultures and beach bums alike in Curaçao’s cosmopolitan corners and secluded beaches. 

by David Swanson
image-IMG 5268 0
Photo by: Photo By Zach Stovall

For the longest time, Curaçao remained one of the Caribbean’s lesser-known gems. But since the island’s cosmopolitan capital of Willemstad was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, thanks to its multicultural history and colorful Dutch architecture, Caribbean aficionados have been steadily flocking here. The C in the ABC island trio that includes nearby Aruba and Bonaire, Curaçao charms visitors with European panache and a starkly beautiful tropical landscape that’s punctuated by timid flamingos in secluded lagoons and sugar-white beaches enclosed by limestone bluffs. There’s fine diving in cerulean seas, and the fine-dining scene is one of the region’s best.

Good news for bargain seekers: Curaçao’s hotel prices don’t swing dramatically between high and low seasons, meaning winter rates are the same or only slightly higher than summer and fall prices. Renting a car is worthwhile, as most of the island’s natural beaches are found on the sparsely developed western end, where there are few hotels. Visitors will find man-made beaches, created and maintained by hotels or restaurants for the use of their patrons, near bustling Willemstad.

HOTELS

Average $112.50

Most of Curaçao’s hotels are in or near Willemstad, with some of the best found in its picturesque old commercial center, a section called Punda (the point). A cheap and cheerful find there is the new Academy Hotel, where a young and eager staff of 50 hospitality students is learning the trade one check-in at a time. Occupying a 132-year-old building, the 42 rooms each have a flat-screen TV, telephone, in-room safe and Internet access; smaller rooms are sold as singles only for $90 a night. A small, inexpensive restaurant and bar rounds out the facilities. (From $105 year-round, plus 12 percent tax/service. 011-5999-461-9319; academyhotelcuracao.com)

In Jan Thiel, 10 minutes east of Willemstad, Morena Resort is an attractive and eco-friendly new property built using fair-trade materials. An excellent value for the price, the resort boasts 32 snug two-bedroom apartments with full kitchens, living-dining rooms and large terraces. Twenty-five three-bedroom stand-alone villas, perfect for families, are also available. The hotel has a full-service spa and an appealing pool area with a restaurant and bar, and Jan Thiel Beach is a five-minute walk away. (From $155 in low season ($212 July 6-Aug. 16), including tax. 011-5999-747-3737; morenaresort.com)

Overlooking the bay at Spanish Water, east of Willemstad, Limestone Holiday is a very casual family-run operation in an off-the-beaten-path neighborhood. Eleven comfortable apartments of varying sizes and views are each equipped with a full kitchen, air conditioning and eclectic decor. A small swimming pool and beach with kayaks is just below; experienced divers can rent equipment. Best of all, since Limestone isn’t on the usual tourist track, each apartment comes with its own compact rental car, so you can explore the island at your leisure. Limestone’s style may be too informal for some, but it works for flexible self-starters who don’t need the usual ministrations of a hotel. (From $115 year-round, including use of compact car, plus 10 percent tax. 011-5999-767-3007; limestoneholiday.com)

Catering especially to divers but perfectly pleasurable for non-divers too, All West Apartments & Diving sits on the edge of a cliff near the village of Westpunt, at the island’s west end. Not coincidentally, some of Curaçao’s finest diving and snorkeling is found nearby. There are 12 tidy apartments of varying sizes, each sleeping two to four people and all with air conditioning, fully equipped kitchens, and a terrace or balcony overlooking the sea. Daily maid service is not provided, but sheets and towels are replaced twice a week. Follow the stairs down to a small coral-studded beach suitable for swimming; the dive shop is just down the road. (From $75 year-round, plus 7 percent tax. 011-5999-461-2310; allwestcuracao.com)

WORTH A SPLURGE

Last year the 137-unit Lions Dive & Beach Resort, located on the beach east of Willemstad in Saliña, wrapped up a renovation and expansion, adding a gorgeous Olympic-size pool with an infinity edge. Although the hotel is beachfront, the least expensive rooms are in two- and three-story buildings facing the garden or pool — all have a balcony or terrace. More expensive rooms have sea views, with some rooms opening onto the sand. The extensive facilities include three restaurants, a well-equipped dive shop called Ocean Encounters, a spa and the largest fitness center on the island. The Curaçao Sea Aquarium is next door, and the restaurants and night life of Mambo Beach are within walking distance. (From $196 year-round, including tax. 011-5999-434-8888; lionsdive.com)

OUT + ABOUT

Dominated by 1,239-foot Mount Christoffel, Curaçao’s highest, Christoffel Park occupies much of the island’s western tip. There are eight hiking trails of various lengths, providing a chance to see endemic species of white-tailed deer, cottontail rabbit and rare orchids, plus plantation ruins, dramatic coastal scenery, caves with Arawak drawings and salinas (salt ponds — great for bird-watching). Drive through the park on your own, or join a four-hour guided safari. The tour runs daily, except Saturday, at 8 a.m. or by appointment; shorter and sunrise/sunset tours are also available.

Check out the Affordable Curaçao gallery...

CURAÇAO ON $124 A DAY*

*per person based on double occupancy and excluding airfare, car rental, airport transfers, tax and service charges (US$1 = 1.77 ANG)

BREAKFAST

De Fontein
$8 for traditional Dutch pancakes with bacon and apple
Patio Promenade Shopping Center
011-5999-736-0500

LUNCH

Kura Hulanda Museum Restaurant
$12.50 for chicken Caesar salad
Klipstraat 9, Otrabanda
011-5999-434-7700

DINNER

Seaside Terrace
$17 for red snapper, conch and shrimp combo with sides
Dr. Martin Luther King Boulevard
011-5999-461-8361

GETTING THERE

Air Jamaica flies from Montego Bay; American from Miami; Continental from Newark, New Jersey; Insel Air from Miami; Delta from Atlanta.

TAXI

From airport to:

Academy Hotel – $28
Lions Dive – $32
Limestone, Morena – $40
All West – $65

RENTAL CAR

Budget from $35 per day ($38 in winter), including insurance. Drive on the right; a local license isn’t required. 011-5999-868-3466; curacao-budgetcar.com

TAXES

Room tax is 7 percent, and a service charge is sometimes added; meal tax is 5 percent; departure tax is $32 (usually included in airfare).

INFO

800-328-7222; curacao.com

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