Bequia (pronounced BECK-way) is a spindly seven-square-mile outpost six miles south of St. Vincent. Easily explored on foot, the island seems to be perpetually on the cusp of discovery, and its population of 5,000 is welcoming and friendly. But a scarcity of water has hindered full-scale tourism, and Bequia clings proudly to its rich maritime heritage. In the bucolic sailing hub of Port Elizabeth, fishing boats line the waterfront and craft stores sell model boats that continue the island’s long boatbuilding tradition in miniature. The Easter Regatta is the highlight of the year, and you don’t need to know a jib from a jibe to enjoy the festivities.
A strip of sand fronts Port Elizabeth, and the south end of busy Admiralty Bay has an untended beach with an abandoned resort hiding in the weeds. Immediately south is the first of the archipelago’s beauties, Princess Margaret Beach, whose gentle surf the English royal reportedly enjoyed while on her honeymoon. It’s best reached by water taxi, and skiffs make the short hop from Port Elizabeth for about $6. A short distance farther is snorkel-friendly Lower Bay, the island’s longest strand, where calm waters are partly sheltered by reef and Sunday picnics are an island ritual.
Friendship Bay is Bequia’s busiest beach, a narrow arc anchored at each end by the island’s largest hotels. Circling north, Hope Bay’s often-deserted horseshoe cove is accessed on foot via a horrendous road. Quiet, reef-protected and lined with gray sand, Spring Bay and Industry Bay are backed by the scenic remnants of coconut plantations.
Where to Stay
Bequia boasts the Grenadines’ best array of inexpensive and moderately priced accommodations, such as Kingsville Apartments near Lower Bay, where eight air-conditioned one- and two-bedroom cottages have full kitchens. From $80 in low season ($100 high). 784-458-3404; kingsville-apartments.net
Above Friendship Bay, the new Bequia Beach Hotel is the island’s largest resort, with 35 rooms decorated in swank plantation style, plus a pool, spa, restaurant and beach bar. From $180 in low season ($250 high). 784-458-1600; bequiabeach.com
Firefly Plantation Bequia has only four rooms, but the revamped inn on a working farm overlooking Spring Bay is now the island’s most exclusive abode, boasting a pool, an open-air restaurant and chic accommodations with expansive balconies. From $395 in low season ($495 high), including full breakfast. 784-458-3414; fireflybequia.com
Where to Eat
Longtime favorite Mac’s Pizzeria serves mouthwatering lobster pies along the Port Elizabeth waterfront. 784-458-3474
Tucked between the rocks at the north end of Princess Margaret Beach, Jack’s Bar offers good food and strong drinks served on wide terraces shaded by swaths of canvas; arrive in the morning and odds are you’ll still be here at sunset. 784-457-3762
In Lower Bay, Dawn’s Creole Beach Café serves island food next to the sand, with live music on Sundays. 785-492-6508
Hot Stuff
Friendship Rose, a 100-foot Bequia-built schooner, offers day sails from Port Elizabeth to Mustique or the Tobago Cays for $125, including snorkeling, breakfast, lunch and drinks. 784-495-0886; friendshiprose.com
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