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Photo by: Zach Stovall

The only country in Central America with a British colonial history, English-speaking Belize (formerly known as British Honduras) is an adventurer’s paradise. Hit the hemisphere’s longest barrier reef for superb snorkeling, diving and fishing, or head inland to explore some of the wildest jungles on the planet.

WHERE TO STAY

Lamanai Outpost Lodge
STYLE: Back-to-nature jungle retreat
LOCATION: On the New River Lagoon, Orange Walk District
ACCOMMODATIONS: 17 thatch-roof double cabanas
RATES: From $120 in low season ($150 high)
AMENITIES: Fixed-menu restaurant with bar; private bath and ceiling fans in cabanas (two have air conditioning); a load of small-group river- and hiking-related activities, including the nighttime Crocodile Encounter and a guided tour of the nearby Maya ruins at Lamanai
CONTACT: 954-636-1107; lamanai.com

Turtle Inn
STYLE: Francis Ford Coppola’s Bali-inspired boutique hideaway
LOCATION: On the beach a mile north of Placencia Town
ACCOMMODATIONS: 17 cottages, seven villas and a three-bedroom pavilion home
RATES: From $285 in low season ($420 high), including breakfast
AMENITIES: Three restaurants and three bars, 650 feet of beach, two swimming pools, free Wi-Fi, outdoor showers, open-air spa, dive shop, kids gelato bar
CONTACT: 800-746-3743; coppolaresorts.com/turtleinn

Machaca Hill Rainforest Canopy Lodge
STYLE: Eco-immersive boutique resort
LOCATION: On 12,000 acres of rainforest along the Rio Grande, 15 minutes from Punta Gorda
ACCOMMODATIONS: 12 lodge suites
RATES: From $460 in low season ($540 high), all-inclusive
AMENITIES: Swimming pool, restaurant and bar, spa, Internet access, outdoorsy adventures such as mountain biking, caving tours, river excursions, and nighttime drives and hikes
CONTACT: 501-722-0050; machacahill.com

WHERE TO EAT

Mare
SETTING: Under a soaring thatch roof in Francis Ford Coppola’s Turtle Inn, Placencia
CUISINE: Authentic southern Italian — Coppola family recipes from the Basilicata region — featuring plenty of locally caught fish and sauces made with tomatoes and herbs grown in an on-site organic garden
ATMOSPHERE: Bali-inspired, open-air yet intimate
RECOMMENDATIONS: Brick-oven pizzas, grigliata mista (assorted grilled seafood with olive oil), torta al cioccolato (molten chocolate cake)
PRICE: Entrées from $25
CONTACT: 800-746-3743; coppolaresorts.com/turtleinn

The Shak
SETTING: On the water in Placencia Town
CUISINE: Healthy fish burgers, wraps, nachos, salads and smoothies
ATMOSPHERE: Flip-flop casual
RECOMMENDATIONS: Owner Magda Weaver’s homemade veggie burger, jerk fish burger, jerk chicken nachos, Irie Pineapple or (in season) Mango Mambo smoothies
PRICE: Sandwiches from $6
CONTACT: 501-622-1686; theshakbeachcafe.com

WHAT TO KNOW

TOURIST INFORMATION: 800-624-0686; travelbelize.org

DOCUMENTS: A valid passport and a return ticket are required. Departure fees totaling $39.25 are payable at the airport but are often included in airfare.

GETTING THERE: Philip Goldson International Airport (BZE), near Belize City, welcomes several flights from the United States: American Airlines from Miami and Dallas-Fort Worth; Continental from Houston and New York-JFK; Delta from Atlanta; US Airways from Charlotte, North Carolina; and Grupo TACA from Los Angeles (501-227-7185; taca.com).

DIALING IN: 011 + 501 + seven-digit number

CURRENCY: Belize dollar (US$1 = 2 BZD); most hotels and restaurants accept U.S. dollars 

GETTING AROUND: Maya Island Air (501-223-1140 or 501-223-1362; mayaregional.com) and Tropic Air (800-422-3435; tropicair.com) fly between the international airport and a host of smaller airfields in Belize, including Placencia, Punta Gorda and Ambergris Caye. Most resorts can arrange airport transfers, but taxis are plentiful in more tourist-ready areas.

DRIVING IN BELIZE

RENTING A CAR

There are about a dozen rental-car counters at the Goldson airport, including some well-regarded local companies, such as Jabiru Auto Rental (501-224-4680; jabiruautorental.bz), and big-time outfits, including Avis (501-225-2629; avis.com.bz) and Hertz (501-225-3300; hertzbelize.com). Our Jimny came from Budget (501-223-2435; budget-belize.com): $65 a day or $390 a week in low season ($70 a day or $420 a week high), plus a $14 a day loss damage waiver, mandatory for rentals in Belize. Gasoline costs about $5 a gallon here.

FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE

During the dry season (December to May), a four-wheel-drive vehicle isn’t an absolute necessity, but if you’re traveling between June and November or plan to venture off the main road, take no chances: Rains can be sudden and torrential, and flooded or washed-out back roads aren’t uncommon. Fortunately, a 4x4 Suzuki Jimny like ours (or the older Samurai) is generally a rental-car outfit’s bargain offering — often running as little as $45 to $50 per day (manual transmission).

ROAD RULES

Belizean highways aren’t vast thoroughfares stippled by Burger Kings and Chevron stations. The asphalt is smooth, but signage and painted lines are minimal, fuel stops are rare, and speed limits are left to the imagination. Officially, top speeds are 55 mph on the open road and 25 mph in populated places, but enormous speed bumps called “sleeping policemen” are the only real enforcement. Bring a good map, and above all, drive to survive: Roads in and around Belize City can seem like a complete free-for-all, and even in the hinterlands, surprises (poky Mennonite carriages, errant livestock, bicyclists) can ruin your whole day — and theirs. Keep extra food and water on hand; breakdowns can happen — and don’t even think about driving at night.