Languid Carriacou (pronounced CARE-ee-uh-coo), governed by Grenada to the south, is the largest and most populous of the Grenadines. Most of its 9,000 residents make their livelihood from boat building and fishing, and because the 13-square-mile island offers little lodging and has few dining options, tourism is largely limited to day-trippers. However, Carriacou is a find for anyone in search of great beaches, and the main settlement, Hillsborough, has a decent strand that stretches for a mile on either side of the ferry dock.
Carriacou’s great beauty is undeveloped Anse la Roche, at its northwest tip; get there by boat or trek 20 minutes from the main road. Just past the village of Windward, Petit Carenage Bay is much easier to reach and boasts a long, often-deserted arc of glistening silica studded with shells. Paradise Beach, just past the airport, offers a much more social scene, with a reggae soundtrack pulsing from a couple of beach bars. Two offshore islands can be reached by water taxi: White Island, off Tyrell Bay, has a beach along its north shore. West of Hillsborough, Sandy Island is a sandbar with a small grove of palm, almond and sea grape trees offering shade between snorkel excursions.
Where to Stay
Just a 100-yard stroll from Hillsborough’s ferry dock, Ade’s Dream offers 16 air-conditioned rooms, each one with a full kitchen and balcony. From $54 year-round. 473-443-7317; adesdream.com
Two miles from town, the cottages and five-room guesthouse of the Green Roof Inn sit on a bluff overlooking a tiny beach. The compact rooms are simply furnished but well kept. Try the breezy terrace restaurant. From $70 year-round, including continental breakfast. 473-443-6399; greenroofinn.com
Down Island has rental apartments from $60 in low season ($75 high) and two-bedroom villas with pools from $160 in low season ($185 high). 473-443-8182; islandvillas.com
Where to Eat
Lyme and Dine offers a menu of continental and Caribbean flavors. 473-443-7979; lymeanddine.com
The fare at Bogles Round House might include coconut-crusted mahimahi or slow-braised lamb; expats amble in for Sunday brunch. 473-443-7841; boglesroundhouse.com
Hot Stuff
Carriacou Silver Diving offers boat transfers from Hillsborough to Anse la Roche and Sandy Island for $12 per person round trip (minimum of two passengers). 473-443-7882; scubamax.com
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