Union Island appears on the horizon like a South Pacific vision, with 999-foot Mount Tobai (the archipelago’s highest peak) piercing the clouds. This quirky backwater is the Grenadines ’ transportation hub and sees lots of traffic but few overnight visitors. Its population of 2,000 is divided between two towns, Ashton and Clifton, the latter of which has a small international airport.
One of the Grenadines’ most beautiful strands is Chatham Bay, a broad arc of sand that faces the sunset. Park at the top of the hill and walk down the rutted road to the quiet beach, where vendors sell snacks and yachts dot the bay. Around the corner and accessible only by boat (easily arranged in Clifton) is Bloody Bay, a steep-pitched and rugged shore where the waves wash the sand in sweeping curls; you’ll probably have it all to yourself. On the north coast, Richmond Bay, also known as Big Sands, has patches of good swimming despite the removal of mangrove stands, which is taking its toll on the beach.
Where to Stay
The 17-room Kings Landing Hotel fronts the beach and offers motel-like rooms and a pool. From $95 year-round, including breakfast. 784-485-8823; kingslandinghotel.com
Where to Eat
Yacht provisioner Captain Gourmet has a delicious array of imported meats, wine and freshly made yogurt and bread. 784-458-8918; capgourmet.com
Hot Stuff
Captain Yannis sails seven-hour catamaran cruises to Mayreau, the Tobago Cays and Palm Island for $75 per person. 784-458-8513
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