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Photo by: Joao Canziani

EAT | REFINED

The Cancúnenses take cuisine seriously, and more than 500 restaurants cater to their discriminating and diverse tastes. Affable American emigrant John Gray is con-sidered a pioneer of the local fine-dining scene, and his growing Riviera Maya dining and drinking empire – which includes four restaurants, a bar/lounge and private-label wines – has cemented his reputation. John Gray’s Downtown (52-998-883-9800; johngrayrestaurantgroup.com), an industrial-chic bistro in a rapidly gentrifying quarter of Centro, offers an eclectic Mexican/French menu, stellar service and reasonable prices. Go for Gray’s take on the French classic duck a l’orange, drizzled with Yucatecan honey, chipotle and tequila añejo. Stay for the floral sweetness of his banana bread, served with lashings of lavender-infused honey.

An understated elegance prevails at The Ritz-Carlton Cancún (52-998-881-0808; ritzcarlton.com), home to two of only three five-diamond-rated restaurants in the city. During the resort’s progressive dinners (open to the public by reservation), patrons enjoy each course in a different dining room, with dessert in a romantic beachfront cabana.

New kitchen on the block Elefanta (52-998-176-8070; elefanta.com.mx) serves Indian dinners in a stylish cluster of treehouse-like palapas overlooking Nichupte Lagoon. Watch the sunset from a water’s-edge cabina, then ascend for the main event. Their dal makhani elevates the humble black lentil, slow-cooked for 24 hours and infused with butter and spices, to delicious new heights.

EAT | RUSTIC

One of many humble cantinas beneath downtown’s bustling bullring, El Rincón (52-998-883-9260) is the only one that serves a traditional Spanish menu. A favorite hangout of trash-talking middle-class caballeros, the tiny, dark and atmospheric taverna serves the best paella in town, including, for less than $10, paella caballo andaluz, loaded with clams, shrimp, pork, chorizo and mussels.

Savor true Mexican flavors at Labná (52-998-892-3056; labna​.com), where the lunchtime buffet groans under the weight of Yucatecan classics such as sopa de lima (chicken and lime broth with tortilla strips, cilantro and onion) and dulce de papaya (green papaya stewed with cinnamon and sugar and topped with grated cheese). The bountiful spread includes at least a dozen traditional hot dishes and desserts, many of which will be unfamiliar to all but culinary anthropologists, but each is patiently deconstructed by the friendly waitstaff.

A few doors down and newly opened in the zona hotelera, branches of Labná’s sister restaurant, La Habichuela (52-998-884-3158; lahabichuela.com), offer local and Caribbean fare in chic yet relaxed settings. Romantic dinners in the downtown location’s intimate garden, illuminated by strings of fairy lights, are sweetened by the signature cocobichuela, chunks of curried lobster and shrimp served in a coconut shell.

STAY	EAT	PLAY	SHOP

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