From Cooper (more Painkillers), we journey into the belly of the sailing beast: Virgin Gorda’s North Sound and its Bitter End Yacht Club. We warily head ashore, but perhaps just to befuddle us, all the sailorlike folk here are unfailingly helpful and friendly. Though none of the Club’s three watering holes are genuine beach bars, they nonetheless carry a fine selection of rums (not that our abused palates could tell the difference between an aged Barbancourt and that blue stuff barbers use to sterilize combs). Bitter End’s pub also serves a mean shepherd’s pie, which is well-known to be among the best of the hangover cures that don’t include some hair of the dog. It works, but barely.
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