Boatosaurus gets to stretch its legs on the 15-mile crossing from Virgin Gorda to Anegada – reassuringly called the Drowned Island. As tempting as it is to punch the coordinates into the boat’s autopilot and then join the ’Beards for a breakfast of Red Stripes, the fact that, over the years, Anegada’s reefs and shoals have claimed hundreds of ships keeps me obsessively checking the charts. With Graybeard manning the binoculars, we finally pick out the channel markers and navigate our way to a mooring in time for a rum brunch.
Anegada’s north shore is nearly all beach, with two notable bars, Big Bamboo and Cow Wreck Beach Bar. Big Bamboo, on Loblolly Bay, has the slightly better beach – though on this island, the fourth-best beach is just about as good as it gets anyway – but since this trip is all about the booze, we opt for Cow Wreck, which offers the better bar. How much rum does it take to wreck a cow? Well, the bar goes even further with its specialty drink, the Cow Killer.
Back on board, it’s night four of the Natural Selection Olympics, in which we compete in a series of events that combine prodigious amounts of alcohol with running on slick decks and diving from great heights into black water. At first we’re amazed that no one has drowned, and then we realize that replacing most of your blood with ethanol makes it nearly impossible to sink in seawater. The scoring so far includes one chipped tooth, two cracked ribs and assorted major contusions and abrasions, as well as three flooded cameras, one pair of broken sunglasses and a missing boat shoe.