Last year’s outbreak of the H1N1 virus effectively shut down Mexico’s tourism industry, plunging the island of Cozumel into a serious slump. Now, with the hysteria having waned, the island’s fortunes are on the upswing, and throngs of cruise-ship passengers, divers and other water-sports lovers are arriving to enjoy the island’s crystal-clear waters, thriving coral reef and small-town Mexican feel.
The largest of Mexico’s inhabited islands, Cozumel lies 10 miles east of the Yucatán Peninsula, a quick flight from Cancún or ferry ride from Playa del Carmen. Jacques Cousteau is credited with putting the almost-flat, 190-square-mile outpost on divers’ radar back in the 1960s, and today Cozumel has come into its own as a full-fledged travel destination complete with stylish hotels, hip hangouts and tempting restaurants.
NIGHT VISION
San Miguel, Cozumel’s main town, charms visitors with its whitewashed seaside malecón, where couples snuggle on park benches and old men gather to gossip. In the center of town, spruced-up Benito Juarez Park comes alive at sunset, as vendors pushing brightly painted carts tempt passersby with churros (fried pastries with powdered sugar) and baked plantains drizzled in sweetened condensed milk; peals of laughter and chatter in a variety of languages spill out of sidewalk cafés. On Sunday nights, visitors and denizens alike converge to dance to sultry salsa from local band Cuzamil.
EATING AROUND
Family-run favorite La Choza has been going strong for 20 years and continues to serve up traditional Yucatecan fare in a spacious new Avenida 10 location that’s lively and colorful. Don’t pass up the avocado pie; served chilled and dusted with cinnamon, it’s a uniquely flavorful dessert.
Vibrant Kinta Mexican Bistro lends urban chic with a seasonal menu of pork, seafood and Mexican dishes. The best seats in the house are in the garden, under twinkling lanterns strung from coconut palms.
Outdoor dining is also on the menu at Casa Mission, where patrons sit on a veranda embellished with orchids, local art and cages of chirping birds. After a complimentary bowl of lime soup, choose a fresh ceviche followed by lobster or a Mexican combo plate of chicken tamales, red and green enchiladas, and stuffed peppers.
Popular with visitors and locals, the Mediterranean-Mexican fare at La Cocay includes creative appetizers such as duck firecrackers with chipotle-honey glaze; outstanding entrées include filet mignon and sesame-crusted tuna.
SURF AND TURF
Visitors to the marine park at Chankanaab can now explore its famous lagoon without getting wet. To the tune of the Beatles’ “Yellow Submarine,” Atlantis Submarines’ craft descends 100 feet to the ocean floor, where grouper and parrotfish glide silently past the portholes. Topside, discover Cozumel’s untamed interior on Wild Tours’ off-road buggy expedition into the low-lying jungle. The two-hour ride over rocky and dusty terrain is rough, but hot and weary adventurers are rewarded with a refreshing dip at Jade Caverns, one of the few freshwater cenotes on the island.
Learn more about Chankanaab in Day Trip: Cozumel...
GROWN-UP GETAWAY
The 87-room, two-year-old Aura Cozumel Wyndham Grand Bay is the island’s only all-inclusive resort exclusively for adults, featuring swim-up suites and top-floor accommodations with private plunge pools. A relaxed and sophisticated atmosphere prevails, and guests can enjoy a variety of water sports or lazing under towering palm trees. The casual, beachfront Hava Grill is an ideal spot for an afternoon margarita. After dark, head to the sultry Luna Lounge Bar.
STAR-STRUCK
The newly renovated, five-star Presidente InterContinental Cozumel continues to deliver on a grand scale with refurbished ocean-view suites that feature large soaking tubs with views through sunset-facing picture windows. The sumptuous and spacious Mandara Spa offers several traditional Maya methods for relaxation and pampering, including a temazcal (sweat lodge) and bathing rituals
performed amid tranquil gardens.
CLUB CLASS
With bars, restaurants and water sports, Cozumel’s many beach clubs have what it takes for a day of fun in the sun. Brand-new on the scene is the Money Bar Beach Club , where services include massages, glass-bottom boat rides and snorkeling at nearby Dzul-Ha reef. At hot spot La Palapita den Medio, the Friday-night scene swings to live salsa.
FANTASY ISLAND
Escape from the “big” island to Isla Pasión , a sandy spit off Cozumel’s northern coast. Excursions cost $65 per person and include round-trip transportation, a buffet lunch, drinks and beach activities. Visitors can beachcomb, sunbathe, windsurf or kayak through the red mangroves along the jagged west coast, where wildlife sightings often include frigate birds and bald doves, as well as barracuda and the occasional crocodile. Nature lovers may overnight in one of Isla Pasión’s two new casitas. Once the day-trippers leave, you’ll have this islet all to yourselves.
COZUMEL AGENDA
STAY
Aura Cozumel Wyndham Grand Bay
auraresorts.com
From $238 in low season ($282 high)
Isla Pasión
Small casitas sleep four; large casitas sleep 10
isla-pasion.com
From $350 year-round
Presidente InterContinental Cozumel
intercontinentalcozumel.com
From $219 in low season ($329 high)
EAT
Casa Mission
011-52-987-872-3581
Entrées from $14
Kinta Mexican Bistro
011-52-987-869-0544
Entrées from $12
La Choza
011-52-987-872-0958
Entrées from $10
La Cocay
011-52-987-872-5533
Entrées from $13
PLAY
Atlantis Submarines
011-52-987-872-5671
atlantisadventures.com
Money Bar Beach Club
011-52-987-869-5141
moneybarbeachclub.com
La Palapita den Medio
011-52-987-869-1406
Wild Tours
888-497-4283
wild-tours.com
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