Get out of that gated resort. Negril, Montego Bay and Ocho Rios are world-famous beach destinations, but Jamaica’s soul lives in the small towns and hidden valleys that are far removed from the hustle and bustle of the tourist centers. Upgraded roads, particularly the North Coast Highway, make it fairly easy to explore the Caribbean’s third-largest island. Most of the tourism infrastructure is concentrated on the west and northwest coasts. In the southwest, St. Elizabeth has several natural attractions, including the Black River, but the true day-trip star is the lush and mountainous parish of Portland on the northeast coast.
Beach Lover's Guide to Jamaica...
WHERE TO STAY
Beaches Negril Resort & Spa
STYLE: Family-oriented all-inclusive resort
LOCATION: Front and center on Negril’s famous seven-mile beach
ACCOMMODATIONS: 215 island-style rooms and suites
RATES: From $452 in low season ($463 high)
AMENITIES: Three swimming pools, Sesame Street-themed kid’s activities, Microsoft Xbox 360 Game Garage, five specialty restaurants, five bars, Red Lane Spa, dive shop and water-sports center, tennis courts, Island Routes tour desk
CONTACT: 888-BEACHES (888-232-2437); beaches.com
Half Moon
STYLE: Classic old-money resort
LOCATION: On 400 waterfront acres about five miles east of Montego Bay
ACCOMMODATIONS: 398 plantation-style rooms, suites and villas
RATES: From $205 in low season ($355 high)
AMENITIES: Everything you’d expect and more, including 51 swimming pools, six gourmet restaurants, Robert Trent Jones Sr.-designed 18-hole golf course, tennis and squash courts, fitness center, children’s center, 68,000-square-foot Fern Tree Spa, shopping arcade, water-sports center, dolphin-encounter lagoon
CONTACT: 888-830-5974; halfmoon.com
Hotel Mocking Bird Hill
STYLE: Art-filled eco-boutique hideaway
LOCATION: About three miles east of Port Antonio
ACCOMMODATIONS: Nine breezy, fan-cooled rooms and one suite
RATES: From $135 in low season ($165 high)
AMENITIES: Swimming pool, free Wi-Fi, Mille Fleurs restaurant, magnificent views, custom Jamaica Explorations tours
CONTACT: 876- 993-7134; hotelmockingbirdhill.com
Sandals Grande Ocho Rios Beach & Villa Golf Resort
STYLE: Couples-oriented all-inclusive resort
LOCATION: On 100 acres three miles east of downtown
ACCOMMODATIONS: 529 rooms, suites and villas
RATES: From $429 in low season ($441 high)
AMENITIES: Seven swimming pools, 12 bars, eight specialty restaurants, private beach, dive shop, water-sports center, two fitness centers, 30-foot climbing wall, two spas, tennis courts, complimentary golf, Island Routes tour desk, gift shop
CONTACT: 888-232-2437; sandals.com
WHERE TO EAT
Howie’s
SETTING: Mural-covered concrete-block building in the settlement of Middle Quarters, seven miles north of Black River
CUISINE: Down-home Jamaican
ATMOSPHERE: Funky and friendly
RECOMMENDATIONS: Peanut porridge, conch soup, fried chicken, curried goat
PRICE: Lunch plates about $5
CONTACT: No phone
Mille Fleurs
SETTING: Terrace of Hotel Mocking Bird Hill, three miles east of Port Antonio
CUISINE: Creative Caribbean fare made with locally sourced organic ingredients
ATMOSPHERE: Intimate, candlelit romance
RECOMMENDATIONS: Guava-glazed pork, chicken with June plum sauce, allspice- and rum-stewed beef
PRICE: Entrées from $24
CONTACT: 876-993-7134; hotelmockingbirdhill.com
Scotchie’s Too
SETTING: North Coast Highway in Drax Hall, five miles west of Ocho Rios
CUISINE: Boston Bay-style jerk
ATMOSPHERE: Casual yet classy roadside shop
RECOMMENDATIONS: Jerk pork, sausage and chicken
PRICE: Quarter-pound jerk meat from $3
CONTACT: 876-794-5457
WHAT TO DO
Head inland when you’re ready to take a break from the beach. Partnering with an array of local island specialists, Island Routes Caribbean Adventure Tours (877-768-8370; islandroutes.com) offers a wide range of eco- and soft-adventure trips, including a cruise along the Black River with zip-lining at YS Falls, all-terrain-vehicle safaris and Blue Mountain bicycling expeditions. Jamaica Explorations (876-993-7134; jamaicaexplorations.com) specializes in eco-cultural tours of eastern Jamaica, including bird-watching, Maroon heritage, rafting and culinary excursions through Portland, the birthplace of jerk cuisine.
WHAT TO KNOW
TOURIST INFORMATION: 800-233-4582; visitjamaica.com
DOCUMENTS: A valid passport is required.
GETTING THERE: Montego Bay’s Sangster International Airport (MBJ) and Kingston’s Norman Manley International Airport (KIN) are both well-connected to the United States. Air Jamaica (800-523-5585; airjamaica.com), American (800-433-7300; aa.com), Continental (800-231-0856; continental.com), Delta (800-221-1212; delta.com), Northwest (800-225-2525; nwa.com), Spirit (800-722-7117; spiritair.com), United (800-538-2929; united.com), USA 3000 (877-872-3000; usa3000airlines.com) and US Airways (800-622-1015; usairways.com) all serve Montego Bay. Air Jamaica, American, Delta and Spirit also fly to Kingston.
DIALING IN: 1 + 876 + seven-digit number
CURRENCY: Jamaican dollar (US$1 = 90 JMD)
GETTING AROUND: Rental cars are available at both international airports, but daily rates can be quite high. If you do decide to rent, remember to drive on the left side of the road. Your hotel can arrange airport transfers, or you can hail a licensed JUTA (Jamaica Union of Travelers Association) taxi. Island Routes’ excursions include transfers; Jamaica Explorations’ trips will require a vehicle. If you’re reluctant to drive, Hotel Mocking Bird Hill can organize a car and driver for you.
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