In this beautiful expanse of Arikok National Park, I’m all alone. Fast food has given way to the slow work of nature, and the “Can I help you?” of a megahotel concierge turns into the uncaring, inexorable power of wind and sea. Among the moonscape of snow‑white dunes and russet-hued hills coated in cactuses, bearded goats graze on sparse beach grasses. Up on the cliff above the park’s Boca Prins beach, on Aruba’s east shore, I stand and watch as waves pour in, crashing on rocks and sending high sprays up over the cliff. The sound of the surf is relaxing after the clamor of casinos. ...
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