Anguilla is a sophisticated island with cosmopolitan restaurants and exclusive and intimate inns that have become trendsetters for the rest of the Caribbean. Several international artists and others from the moneyed class have built their personal castles here.

The northernmost of the Leeward Islands, Anguilla is 35-square-miles of contradiction, alternating between soft white sand and tough scrub. With more than 30 beaches bordered by sea grape trees, it's not hard to find a secluded strand with the only footprints being those that trail behind you. The island is relatively dry and flat. Its highest point, Crocus Hill, rises just 213 feet above sea level. Anguilla's capital, The Valley, sits smack in the middle of the coral limestone island. Island Harbour, a fishing village, dominates the north end, while Sandy Ground, the main port, keeps watch on the Caribbean from the eastern shore.

Most of Anguilla's "tourist traps" are of the natural variety. Bring along binoculars for birdwatching, a sketchbook to capture the sunsets and snorkel gear to visit the reefs just offshore.

A holiday on Anguilla would not be complete without at least a brief foray into the alluring turquoise sea. Limited infrastructure and low-volume tourism have kept the island's excellent diving a well kept secret. A number of day trips are recommended, including Sandy Island, reef-ringed Prickly Pear Cays (don't forget to bring sturdy walking shoes since the terrain is rather rough) and Scilly Cay, where the spiny lobster is luscious.

Archaeology-minded landlubbers could spend a whole afternoon at The Fountain, a cave filled with Arawak-carved petroglyphs. Recently, some 40,000 Amerindian artifacts have been uncovered on the island. A few of the local residents are in the process of inventorying the remaining undisturbed sites, so tread carefully when checking them out. As a matter of fact, tread carefully wherever you go; despite some development, this island is still quite pristine.